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The Wanneys Guide

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 67

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Alex Hartshorne Campbell Gome Euan Moir Peter Holder Ryan Fleming Gord

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The Wanneys 169 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.163342, -2.095378

1.1. Aid 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.149050, -2.126035

1.1.1. Area 1 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cabbala VS UKT:4c Unknown 9m
2 Cosmic Egg MS Unknown 8m
3 Ankh VS UKT:5a Unknown 8m

1.1.2. The Quarry 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quaker D Unknown 11m
2 Shaker S UKT:4b Unknown 11m
3 Faker MVS UKT:4c Unknown 12m
4 Just A Little Green E2 UKT:5c Unknown 10m
5 Sick, Sick, Sick (The Beast) E1 UKT:5a Unknown 10m
6 Hypotenuse VD Unknown 14m
7 Lionheart E1 UKT:5b Unknown 7m
8 Madge S Unknown 7m

1.1.3. White Walls 1 route in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Guilty HVS UKT:5a Unknown 8m

1.2. Curtis Crag 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.133239, -2.104834

1.2.1. North Buttress 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Loose Cannon S Unknown 10m
2 Magnum MS Unknown 10m
3 Lock E1 UKT:5c Unknown 8m
4 Stock E1 UKT:5c Unknown 8m
5 Barrel E1 UKT:5c Unknown 8m
6 Naked Gun VS UKT:4c Unknown 7m
7 Bushwacker S Unknown 6m
8 Dum Dum S Unknown 5m
9 Sharpshooter MS Unknown 6m

1.2.2. South Buttress 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Endangered Species E1 UKT:5b Unknown 8m
2 Natural Selection E1 UKT:5b Unknown 8m
3 Fair Game HS Unknown 7m
4 Prime Suspect VS UKT:5a Unknown 7m
5 Above Suspicion HS Unknown 7m
6 Hook VS UKT:5a Unknown 7m
7 Line MVS UKT:4c Unknown 6m
8 Sinker MS Unknown 6m

1.3. East Woodburn 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.180375, -2.131841

description

Short single pitch routes.

approach

Take the minor road out of East Woodburn and turn right along a gated track at the bend in the road. The road passes under the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old Ash Crack D Trad 9m
2 A Fox For President HVS 5a Trad 18m
3 Woodburn Wall

Climb the centre of the west wall, trending right. Finish up a small flake high on the wall.

E1 5b Trad 10m
4 Woodburn Wall Direct

Instead of trending right, climb direct.

E2 5c Trad 12m
5 Oliver Went A Huntin' E2 5c Trad 12m
6 Ridsdale Wall E1 5b Trad 11m
7 The Arbitrator E1 5b Trad 11m
8 Foxey VS Trad 11m
9 Autoerotic E2 5c Trad 11m
10 Autobahn E2 5c Trad 10m
11 Green Slab VD Trad 10m
12 The Arete HS 4b Trad 10m
13 Green Wall HVS 5b Trad 10m
14 Patties Route VS 5a Trad 9m
15 Flying Scot HVS 5a Trad 10m
16 Capstone Wall E1 5b Trad 12m
17 Death Wish

I he left arete of the buttress is climbed to the slab. Surmount the overhang directly above using the fluting.

E1 5b Trad 12m
18 Cheese Wedge S Trad 7m
19 Stilton VD Trad 8m

1.4. Great Wanney 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.145501, -2.107409

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Crack MVS UKT:4c Unknown 8m
2 Dennis E2 UKT:6a Unknown 8m
3 Right Crack VS UKT:5a Unknown 8m
4 Pitfall E1 UKT:5b Unknown 9m
5 Aces High E1 UKT:5b Unknown 9m
6 Marquee Metal E3 UKT:5c Unknown 9m
7 Eastern Promise E2 UKT:5c Unknown 9m
8 Jungle Warfare E3 UKT:6b Unknown 9m
9 Eastern Ecstasy E4 UKT:6a Unknown 15m
10 Eastern Traverse HS UKT:4b Unknown 11m
11 East Buttress Direct E3 UKT:5c Unknown 15m
12 Thunder Thighs E5 UKT:6b Unknown 15m
13 Idiot Wind E4 UKT:5c Unknown 15m
14 Great Chimney VD Unknown 12m
15 Obverse Direct HS UKT:4c Unknown 14m
16 Crisis Zone E7 UKT:6c Unknown 15m
17 Endless Flight

Northumberland Classic. Start up a crack to the left of the fench, or easier from boundary corner. Clip the insitu thread, then continue up the exposed arete moving right towards the top.

E5 6a Trad 15m
18 Policy of Truth E6 UKT:6c Unknown 15m
19 Boundary Corner VD Unknown 15m
20 Hawk Slab HVS UKT:5a Unknown 15m
21 Dove's Nest Crack HVS UKT:5a Unknown 11m
22 Patchett's Plunge E3 UKT:5b Unknown 12m
23 Idiot's Delight HS UKT:4c Unknown 12m
24 Loony's Lament HVS UKT:5b Unknown 12m
25 Great Wall HVS UKT:5b Unknown 15m
26 Katana E6 UKT:6b Unknown 15m
27 Foxes Hole D Unknown 12m
28 Spare Rib E4 UKT:6a Unknown 6m
29 Karabiner Crack VS UKT:5a Unknown 6m
30 Bilberry Wall VS 4c Trad 8m
31 The Wine O HVS 5a Trad 8m
32 The Last Retreat E4 UKT:6a Unknown 14m
33 Nosey Parker E4 UKT:6a Unknown 14m
34 Central Gully East D Trad 11m
35 Central Gully West S Trad 14m
36 Northumberland Wall E2 5c Trad 15m
37 Osiris E3 UKT:5c Unknown 15m
38 Pharaoh's Face E3 UKT:5c Unknown 18m
39 Skyline E5 UKT:6b Unknown 18m
40 Main Wall MS Unknown 12m
41 Lichen Chimney M Unknown 9m
42 Broken Blocks Staircase M Unknown 9m
43 Dirty Flue M Unknown 9m
44 Blue Arête E4 UKT:6a Unknown 8m
45 The Brute HVS UKT:5a Unknown 8m
46 Enery's Ammer E2 UKT:5b Unknown 11m
47 Sweethope Crack HS UKT:4b Unknown 11m
48 Squeezy Bill D Unknown 11m
49 Rake's Crack E1 UKT:5b Unknown 12m
50 Rake's Arête VD Unknown 15m
51 Direct Finish E3 UKT:5c Unknown 15m
52 The Jibber E1 UKT:5b Unknown 12m
53 Jacob's Ladder VD Unknown 12m
54 Stairway to Heaven E5 UKT:6a Unknown 13m
55 Rake's Progress VD Unknown 12m
56 Epitaph MVS UKT:4b Unknown 11m
57 Girdle Traverse HVS UKT:5b Unknown 150m
58 Spider Crack MVS UKT:4c Unknown 12m
59 Broken Wing E3 UKT:5c Unknown 12m
60 Raven's Nest VD Unknown 12m
61 Thin Ice E4 UKT:6a Unknown 12m
62 Heather Slab D Unknown 8m
63 Old Holborn E1 UKT:5b Unknown 12m
64 Golden Virginia E1 UKT:5b Unknown 17m
65 California Crack HVS UKT:5a Unknown 18m
66 Arête and Groove VD Unknown 13m
67 Task Force E3 UKT:5c Unknown 13m
68 Golden Gate MVS UKT:4c Unknown 15m
69 West Chimney D Unknown 12m
70 The 16 ½ Pint Pig HVS UKT:5b Unknown 13m
71 War Monger E1 UKT:5b Unknown 9m
72 Lee's Leap MVS UKT:4c Unknown 9m
73 If Looks Could Kill E1 UKT:5c Unknown 6m
74 At the Witches Trial HVS UKT:5a Unknown 6m
75 'A' Crack VD Unknown 5m
76 Willing to Sin E4 UKT:6a Unknown 9m
77 'B' Crack HVS UKT:5a Unknown 7m
78 Blowin Free E1 UKT:5b Unknown 7m
79 Corned Beef E1 UKT:5b Unknown 7m
80 'B' Corner D Unknown 7m
81 'B' Arête VD Unknown 7m
82 Games Without Frontears HVS UKT:5a Unknown 12m
83 Two Tear Crack E1 UKT:5c Unknown 9m
84 War Without Tears E1 UKT:5c Unknown 9m
85 Veil of Tears HVS UKT:5a Unknown 30m
86 Silently Snitched from Stu E1 UKT:5b Unknown 6m

1.5. Little Wanney 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.144442, -2.118309

1.5.1. Rickety Castle 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tau D Unknown 6m
2 Sigma D Unknown 8m

1.5.2. Buff Crag 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hairy Diplodocus E2 UKT:5c Unknown 12m
2 Chiasmus Chimney D Unknown 11m
3 Hole in the Wall E2 UKT:5c Unknown 12m
4 Psyche HS UKT:4b Unknown 12m

1.6. Wolf 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.188257, -2.038303

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snap Shot VS UKT:5a Unknown 5m
2 Freeze Frame VS UKT:5a Unknown 5m
3 Still Motion VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
4 Teabag MVS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
5 Drop Scone VS UKT:5a Unknown 5m
6 String Bean S Unknown 5m
7 Angel Cake HVS UKT:5b Unknown 5m
8 Cucumber Sandwich HVS UKT:5b Unknown 5m
9 Peapod VD Unknown 5m
10 Dandelion VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
11 Burdock VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
12 Vimto VS UKT:5a Unknown 5m
13 Family Outing VD Unknown 8m
14 Picnic VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
15 Day Away VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
16 Midsummer Madness HVS UKT:5b Unknown 5m
17 Spring Fever VS UKT:5a Unknown 5m
18 Green Bean D Unknown 7m
19 Fruit Salad VD Unknown 7m
20 Jelly and Cream S Unknown 7m
21 Crusty Loaf HVS UKT:5b Unknown 5m
22 Bread knife S Unknown 7m
23 Bread Bun MVS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
24 Small Matter S Unknown 6m
25 Little Layback VD Unknown 6m
26 Trivial Pursuit E1 UKT:5c Unknown 5m
27 Adagio VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
28 High Note VS UKT:4c Unknown 4m
29 Sharp Practice E4 UKT:6a Unknown 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
M Broken Blocks Staircase Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Dirty Flue Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Lichen Chimney Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
D Quaker Unknown 11m 1.1.2. The Quarry
Old Ash Crack Trad 9m 1.3. East Woodburn
'B' Corner Unknown 7m 1.4. Great Wanney
Central Gully East Trad 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
Foxes Hole Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Heather Slab Unknown 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
Squeezy Bill Unknown 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
West Chimney Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Sigma Unknown 8m 1.5.1. Rickety Castle
Tau Unknown 6m 1.5.1. Rickety Castle
Chiasmus Chimney Unknown 11m 1.5.2. Buff Crag
Green Bean Unknown 7m 1.6. Wolf
VD Hypotenuse Unknown 14m 1.1.2. The Quarry
Green Slab Trad 10m 1.3. East Woodburn
Stilton Trad 8m 1.3. East Woodburn
'A' Crack Unknown 5m 1.4. Great Wanney
'B' Arête Unknown 7m 1.4. Great Wanney
Arête and Groove Unknown 13m 1.4. Great Wanney
Boundary Corner Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Great Chimney Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Jacob's Ladder Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Rake's Arête Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Rake's Progress Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Raven's Nest Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Family Outing Unknown 8m 1.6. Wolf
Fruit Salad Unknown 7m 1.6. Wolf
Little Layback Unknown 6m 1.6. Wolf
Peapod Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
MS Cosmic Egg Unknown 8m 1.1.1. Area 1
Magnum Unknown 10m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Sharpshooter Unknown 6m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Sinker Unknown 6m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Main Wall Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
S 4b Shaker Unknown 11m 1.1.2. The Quarry
S Madge Unknown 7m 1.1.2. The Quarry
Bushwacker Unknown 6m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Dum Dum Unknown 5m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Loose Cannon Unknown 10m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Cheese Wedge Trad 7m 1.3. East Woodburn
Central Gully West Trad 14m 1.4. Great Wanney
Bread knife Unknown 7m 1.6. Wolf
Jelly and Cream Unknown 7m 1.6. Wolf
Small Matter Unknown 6m 1.6. Wolf
String Bean Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
HS 4b The Arete Trad 10m 1.3. East Woodburn
Eastern Traverse Unknown 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
Sweethope Crack Unknown 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
Psyche Unknown 12m 1.5.2. Buff Crag
HS Above Suspicion Unknown 7m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Fair Game Unknown 7m 1.2.2. South Buttress
MVS 4b Epitaph Unknown 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
HS 4c Idiot's Delight Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Obverse Direct Unknown 14m 1.4. Great Wanney
MVS 4c Faker Unknown 12m 1.1.2. The Quarry
Line Unknown 6m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Golden Gate Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Lee's Leap Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Left Crack Unknown 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
Spider Crack Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Bread Bun Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
Teabag Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
VS 4c Cabbala Unknown 9m 1.1.1. Area 1
Naked Gun Unknown 7m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Bilberry Wall Trad 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
Adagio Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
Burdock Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
Dandelion Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
Day Away Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
High Note Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
Picnic Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
Still Motion Unknown 4m 1.6. Wolf
VS Foxey Trad 11m 1.3. East Woodburn
HVS 5a Guilty Unknown 8m 1.1.3. White Walls
A Fox For President Trad 18m 1.3. East Woodburn
Flying Scot Trad 10m 1.3. East Woodburn
'B' Crack Unknown 7m 1.4. Great Wanney
At the Witches Trial Unknown 6m 1.4. Great Wanney
California Crack Unknown 18m 1.4. Great Wanney
Dove's Nest Crack Unknown 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
Games Without Frontears Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Hawk Slab Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
The Brute Unknown 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
The Wine O Trad 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
Veil of Tears Unknown 30m 1.4. Great Wanney
VS 5a Ankh Unknown 8m 1.1.1. Area 1
Hook Unknown 7m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Prime Suspect Unknown 7m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Patties Route Trad 9m 1.3. East Woodburn
Karabiner Crack Unknown 6m 1.4. Great Wanney
Right Crack Unknown 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
Drop Scone Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Freeze Frame Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Snap Shot Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Spring Fever Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Vimto Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
E1 5a Sick, Sick, Sick (The Beast) Unknown 10m 1.1.2. The Quarry
HVS 5b Green Wall Trad 10m 1.3. East Woodburn
Girdle Traverse Unknown 150m 1.4. Great Wanney
Great Wall Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Loony's Lament Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
The 16 ½ Pint Pig Unknown 13m 1.4. Great Wanney
Angel Cake Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Crusty Loaf Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Cucumber Sandwich Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
Midsummer Madness Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
E1 5b Lionheart Unknown 7m 1.1.2. The Quarry
Endangered Species Unknown 8m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Natural Selection Unknown 8m 1.2.2. South Buttress
Capstone Wall Trad 12m 1.3. East Woodburn
Death Wish Trad 12m 1.3. East Woodburn
Ridsdale Wall Trad 11m 1.3. East Woodburn
The Arbitrator Trad 11m 1.3. East Woodburn
Woodburn Wall Trad 10m 1.3. East Woodburn
Aces High Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Blowin Free Unknown 7m 1.4. Great Wanney
Corned Beef Unknown 7m 1.4. Great Wanney
Golden Virginia Unknown 17m 1.4. Great Wanney
Old Holborn Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Pitfall Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Rake's Crack Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Silently Snitched from Stu Unknown 6m 1.4. Great Wanney
The Jibber Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
War Monger Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
E2 5b Enery's Ammer Unknown 11m 1.4. Great Wanney
E1 5c Barrel Unknown 8m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Lock Unknown 8m 1.2.1. North Buttress
Stock Unknown 8m 1.2.1. North Buttress
If Looks Could Kill Unknown 6m 1.4. Great Wanney
Two Tear Crack Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
War Without Tears Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Trivial Pursuit Unknown 5m 1.6. Wolf
E2 5c Just A Little Green Unknown 10m 1.1.2. The Quarry
Autobahn Trad 10m 1.3. East Woodburn
Autoerotic Trad 11m 1.3. East Woodburn
Oliver Went A Huntin' Trad 12m 1.3. East Woodburn
Woodburn Wall Direct Trad 12m 1.3. East Woodburn
Eastern Promise Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Northumberland Wall Trad 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Hairy Diplodocus Unknown 12m 1.5.2. Buff Crag
Hole in the Wall Unknown 12m 1.5.2. Buff Crag
E3 5b Patchett's Plunge Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
E3 5c Broken Wing Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Direct Finish Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
East Buttress Direct Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Marquee Metal Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Osiris Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Pharaoh's Face Unknown 18m 1.4. Great Wanney
Task Force Unknown 13m 1.4. Great Wanney
E2 6a Dennis Unknown 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
E4 5c Idiot Wind Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
E4 6a Blue Arête Unknown 8m 1.4. Great Wanney
Eastern Ecstasy Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Nosey Parker Unknown 14m 1.4. Great Wanney
Spare Rib Unknown 6m 1.4. Great Wanney
The Last Retreat Unknown 14m 1.4. Great Wanney
Thin Ice Unknown 12m 1.4. Great Wanney
Willing to Sin Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
Sharp Practice Unknown 6m 1.6. Wolf
E5 6a Endless Flight Trad 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
Stairway to Heaven Unknown 13m 1.4. Great Wanney
E3 6b Jungle Warfare Unknown 9m 1.4. Great Wanney
E5 6b Skyline Unknown 18m 1.4. Great Wanney
Thunder Thighs Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
E6 6b Katana Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
E6 6c Policy of Truth Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
E7 6c Crisis Zone Unknown 15m 1.4. Great Wanney
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