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Trad Free World All Sport climbing 17 routes in sector

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 51
17
FR
6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+

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Access issues inherited from Wallsend South

Bird restrictions - no climbing - on certain routes form March 1st to July 31st.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
7a ★ Tea Cakes Calling Sport 28m

FA: Pete Oxley, 1996

2
{FR} 6b+ ★★★ The Jewel of the Isle Sport 30m

Top 50 climb. Pumpy. Start in the middle of the steep section, through fingery lower wall and finish up thin crack.

FA: Pete Oxley, 1995

3
{FR} 6a+ ★★ Stalker's Zone Sport 30m

Top 50 climb. Pumpy. Face climb. Start at left leaning corner under overhang. Finish up flake-crack.

FA: Pete Oxley, 1989

4
{FR} 6b ★★★ Trad Free World Sport 28m

Top 50 climb. Pumpy. Start on the ledge (bolt). Climb to the left to easier ground, eventually following a thin crack.

FA: Pete Oxley, 1992

5
{FR} 7b ★★★ Genuflection Sport 28m

Crimpy and technical. Start at the ledge (bolt). Climb straight up the shallow corner to the overhang and bald wall.

FA: Pete Oxley, 1996

6
{FR} 7a+ ★★ Reverence Sport 28m

Top 50 climb. Pumpy. Start at high ledge (bolt). Climb easily to the right. Technical central groove. Finish through small rooflet.

FA: Pete Oxley, 1989

7
7b ★★★ Outside the Gate Sport 28m

FA: Pete Oxley, 1989

8
7b+ ★★ Straight to Hell Sport 28m
9
{FR} 7b ★★★ Halfway to Heaven Sport 30m

Top 50 climb. Pumpy and technical. Start at vertical wall below clean-cut corner. Hard start. Difficult exit to the right of the square-cut corner.

FA: Pete Oxley, 1999

10
7b+ ★★ Wave Graffiti Sport 28m
11
7b ★★ Hawaiian Pipeline Sport 28m
12
7b ★★ Organic Snail Farming Sport 28m

Rockfax Description

A very hard undertaking at the grade. Climb the broken lower wall to a half-height ledge. Climb the fine upper wall via a slim groove, flake-crack and scoop. © Rockfax

FA: Martin Crocker, 1989

Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond.
13
7a+ ★★ Bob's Gold Run Sport 28m
14
6b+ Queen of a Distant Country Sport 28m

Climb the lower wall and clamber carefully onto the middle of the large ledge. Follow the groove above until a line leads left to the arete. Finish up the arete.

FA: Mick Ward, 7 Sep 2019

15
{FR} 7b+ ★★★ Colours Sport 25m

An incredible line with varied climbing. Climb to the roof, pull over to easier ground and move up to the long crack in the headwall.

16
7b ★★ Olympus Mons Sport 28m
17
6b+ ★★ The Empire State Arête Sport 28m

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Dorset Rock Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Mark Glaister & Pete Oxley

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781873341735

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, plus the best of the trad climbing.

Buy
ⓘ
Dorset Bouldering Guidebook

Author(s): Ben Stokes

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9781873341131

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering at Portland, Lulworth and Swanage in Dorset, covering a total 1,943 different problems.

Buy
ⓘ
Swanage Rock Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Climbers Club

Date: 2014

ISBN: 9780901601841

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the trad climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing found at Swanage, plus the Isle of Wight.

Buy
ⓘ

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