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Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Raven Tor

None.Roadside

Ethic inherited from Raven Tor

No chipping,swearing or nudity

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: @jerrymoffat, 1984

Old school grading (8c+)... Hard.

FA: Ben Moon, 1990

FFA: William Bosi, 7 Nov

A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and swing out to gain the wall. Reaching the hanging groove up and left is taxing, climbing it is only marginally easier. Finish by stretching left to the big flake and lower-off, or try the next route.

FA: Martin Atkinson, 1988

The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the Mecca flake and a breather higher up before the upper crux.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by Mutation. Lower-off above the small flake which is reached after a crucial span left.

FA: Jerry Moffatt, 1995

The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near the top of Evolution gain a pinch after a hideous cross-over move. Continue up the wall above to the lower-off on Chimes. Finally saw its second ascent after 23 years on 31/10/2021 by Scottish wad Will Bosi who suggested it is at least 9a+ and possibly harder still.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and powerful. Some lower-off at the first break above the roof for an 8a tick, but the wall above is superb and considerably easier (7c), to finish at a lower-off in a scoop. The initial roof had a huge block on it which made the route much easier. Reclimbed in 1990 by Ben Moon after this block had fallen off.

FA: Andy Pollitt, 1986

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