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Creag an Amalaidh

  • Grade context: UK

Summary

A scenic crag overlooking a loch. Don't let the ~20min walk in put you off. Bolted with what appears to be fresh SS bolts and hangars.

Description

A pleasant and scenic crag with a decent multi pitch offering and several worthwhile single pitch options.

Access issues

Park near the cattle grid on the road adjacent to the crag (Lochbuie Rd?) a short drive off of the A9.

Approach

Walk in a roughly south-westerly direction up a forested incline until you see the crag to your right. There are several chossy smaller crags along the way - don't get disheartened! Keep on trucking until you find the actual crag (the shiny bolts are a dead giveaway that you've found the right one). Top tip from a local - if you are coming mid summer you will need something to clear the bracken and other growth from the path with.

Where to stay

Local B&Bs, Inverness to the south or any of the town to the north.

Ethic

Bolted sport.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The route at the further left area of the crag.

Straight up the flake and onwards to the lower off.

Up the groove via the obvious cracks.

Up the arete, bare right under the overlap then up the final slab to the anchor.

A pocket pulling adventure.

Up the flake to the horizontal incut feature then straight up the slab.

Follow the rightward crack. The top out is an excitingly unnecessary experience involving a lot of loose rock and turf pulling. Better to use the lower off where the stone turns to a vertical lawn.

Joins the previous route once the bulge has been surmounted.

Up the sinuous flake to a corner then delicately move left then right to the anchor.

Fingery.

1 5c
2 5c

Excellent views abound throughout, a worthwhile venture regardless of your grade. The first pitch used to be a single pitcher by the name of Dirty Jenny.

Approximately 15 paces to the right of Ithaca. Move up delicately.

Start on the awkward undercut section then blast up the slab.

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