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Summary

Intimidating multipitch sea cliff climbing on good rock, sheltered from sea spooge, wind and rain. Does seep in cracks and from the top, aretes and exposed faces are often covered in Lichen.

Description

Earnsheugh offers some of the most gob-smacking seacliff climbing in Scotland, with loads of exposure on routes that are usually 2 or 3 pitches in length. The crag takes little time to dry after rain but can suffer from the dreaded coastal dampness. It's sheltered location can be both a hindrance as well as a godsend. Low humidity and winds from a West to Northerly direction generally give the best conditions. Some of the holds can feel a bit dirty but this only adds to the adventure. One of the best crags on the coast.

"Must do" routes: Thugosaurus (E5 5b,6a,6a), Prehistoric Monster (E5 5b,6a,5b), Death Cap (E1 5a,5a), Necromancer (E5 5c,6a,5b), Pterodactyl (E2 5a,5b,4c), Bat's Belfry (E2 5c,5c,5b).

Access issues

On a clay pidgeon range, watch out for shooters. cliffs sometimes get littered with clay fragments.

Approach

Non-tidal, and may be one of the few climbable crags on the coast in high seas.

The base of the crag can be reached by scrambling, but it is more common to abseil from the stakes at the top.

Ethic

Trad.

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