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Summary
Diorite
Roadside crag with a sunny aspect, which can be climbed on for most of the year. Good quality natural trad lines, mostly single pitch, although some two-pitch routes may be found.
Description
A classic of Scotland for good trad cragging. Provides grades from Moderate to E8 in a beautiful setting. The crag is divided in two main areas: The Dun Mor hill (containing the Upper and Lower Doonie) to the west above the quarry, and the Main Cliffs (containing several buttresses), which sit on top of the scree slope near the road.
Descent: easy walk-offs are possible on the side of the hills, however there is a convenient ab point on top of Red Wall (E1) on the Upper North-West crag, and another by the trees left of the top of Vindaloo on the Upper Doonie.
Access issues
No issues.
Approach
Drive on the B955 towards the Glen Clova Hotel. When you reach the hotel, turn left towards the Glen Doll Car Park. After driving 4.10km (2.55miles), you'd have arrived to the base of the slope from where you want to hike up to the crag. Park on the side of the road (
56.865432, -3.163804) , being considerate of farmers and landowners, and avoiding the obvious laybys used for passing vehicles. Alternatively, continue driving for another 0.5km (2000ft) and you'll find a nice old quarry where parking is much more convenient (56.867293, -3.168910). This second option gives direct access to The Doonie.
Ethic
No bolts or fixed anchors. For lower-off, either walk down or set up a rappel station.
Always check possible BIRD NESTING RESTICTIONS that may be active.
Please check Mountaneering Scotland - Bird and Nesting updates before your visit.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Andy Nisbet
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9781907233159
A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.
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Tue 28 Nov
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