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Creag na h-Eighe (Tulliemet)

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 21

Seasonality

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Description

A quiet and accessible outcrop just a few miles North of the Dunkeld area that can provide a useful alternative if Cave Crag is not steep enough. The lines are not so aesthetic but it's a nice sunny location.

Access issues

No issues.

Approach

Drive up the A9 and take the right turn to Guay. At the left bend, drive up the gravel and park. Easy 5 minute walk from limited car parking on the tight bend.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The arete of the buttress, starting up a steep wall on jugs to the right side of a ledge and taking the flying groove above.

Start at short wall below and approx 8m left of Heather Wall with prominant dead rown tree. Start at right edge of the wall and climb to a ledge with large horizontal crack above. move left to finish up centre of wall.

The thin crack in the slab on the far left of the crag. Quite intricate route finding.

Climb a line up the centre of the slab just right of Heather Wall. Poorly protected until near the top.

Crack on RH side of Heather Wall

Climb the steep arete and wall forming the left side of the next buttress to the right of the grassy fault.

Wall and steep cracks right of Wee Arete, finishing at a conspicuous tree at the left end of the steep buttress

At the left end of the buttress split by a large ledge, right of Wee Brahmer.

Slab and arete below Wee Arete, pleasantly airy

The right-hand end of the steep buttress right of Wee Brahmer abuts the slabby side wall of the Main Wall to form a corner containing a rowan tree. Struggle past the rowan and take the good crack on the right to finish.

Wall between Woodworm and Jaggy Bunnets, start at rib left of JB. Climb rib and step left below center of the wall, up this to the roof. Step right and finish with difficulty using quartz knobbles

In the centre of the slabby side wall 5m down and right of Woodworm is a big cracked grooved. Climb this to a capping roof, traverse right and climb twin cracks to finish.

Climb direct through the break in the roof above.

Climb the blank wall left of the arete of Jugs, right of Jaggy Bunnets. Finish easily.

Climbs the broken edge between the side wall and the steeper front face by a wandering line starting on its left side just beside Knuckle Duster.

Start lower down 3m left of the rowan tree. Climb the prominent overhanging crack to reach the first grass ledge.

The thin crack right of the Diret Start of Jugs.

A fun route direct up a series of corners and overhung ledges, starting just left of the large tree. The final twin cracks above a useful rodeo rest provide a stern test of mantleshelfing.

The route of the crag up the open overhanging groove. Steep, strenuous and safe. Climb easily up the first part, take a deep breath and power up to a juggy lip and a blind pullover. All quite dramatic.

The central weakness in the wide roof of the Main Buttress

The distinct line of weakness through a niche and past a tree is all rather traditional. A good one to send your taller mate up first.

Right of the deep recess of Separation. A faint crack leads up a short wall to small overlap. Pull over this onto a slab leading to the right-trending overhanging crack. Once above the crack, finish to the right of the tree hanging over the top.

Steady but bold climbing up the short quartz wall right of the saplings, gained by a lower bulge. Worth a star.

Climb the weakness on the right of the big overhang a few metres right of The Sleeping Sickness. Good bold climbing.

Between Raptor's chimney (S) and Raptor's direct (VS 4c) is a wall with a peg in a break. Climb directly past the peg to a ledge, and then the steep crack in the headwall just to the right.

The three-tiered buttress to the right direct to a tree-filled recess. Finish out left.

Over low overhang to heather, then up wall above, just right of The Real Thingymy. Small area of this wall can weep after a wet spell.

Start just to the left of the obvious boulders on the slab at the far right of the crag. Climb the slab and wall passing just to the right of the mid height overhang. Not in the guidebook although must have been done before (wrote to smc). One of the better vdiffs imo.

A right to left rising girdle traverse of the Begiinners Siding (Far Right Hand Sector) of Creag Na H-Eighe. Starting at the extremeright hand end of the crag, staying low, then rising to the top of the crag at its extreme left hand end, finishing close to the top of Sloths Climb.

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