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Seasonality

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Description

Non-tidal. South-East facing. These routes lie 50 meters south of the waterfall, at a small headland. Although short, there are some enjoyable routes, often on good quality rock.

Access issues inherited from Clashrodney

No issues.

Approach

An approach can also be made directly from the walk in to Clashrodney by descending the well defined grassy ridge seen on the approach (before reaching the burn). At the bottom of the ridge turn left and scramble down easy rocks just north of the first route. Climbs are described from north to south.

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Routes

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Grade Route

This lies on the first steep slab, split at half-height by a thin horizontal crack. Follow the right edge of the slab on small holds to a jug and pull onto a block. Move right to finish up the tricky thin crack.

Climb the smooth arete left of Schoolboy Alcoholic and continue over a bulge to fnish right of Glasgewian Snotter (avoiding any use of the final crack of that route).

Start up the left-slanting shelf and climb up to reach the excellent finger crack in the top wall. There is an interesting direct start at 5a.

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