Black Crag

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 17




Lies on the SW face of Black Hill overlooking Dunsinane Hill in the Sidlaws.

Access issues

No issues. Respect the farmers.


Please park on verge opposite a small cutting on B953 at grid NO223317 - cutting now filled with boulders. Alternately there is a layby (with some boulders) at NO211310, or even on the verge of the B953 at NO218313 near a field gate but away from the house entrance on the south side of the road.


Leave no trace. Don't park where it could bother cattle tracks.



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Grade Route

Starting at the base of the pinnacle follow the obvious line to the left, exiting through the 'chimney' and over the chockstone behind the pinnacle.

There is a pinnacle to the Left of Mental Crack. Climb directly up to the pinnacle and then traverce right up onto the RH face

As per pinnacle face. Good holds, you just need to find them! Couple of bold moves in quick succession above the the runner so best to move swift!

Start as for Pinnacle Face VS/HVS, but step right before the pinnacle to go around it via the easiest line up. Not to be confused with Pinnacle Corner D, which is left of MC Corner HS.

Climb Corner / Crack to the Right of the pinnacle, and left of the MC Corner.

Climb corner to Left of Mental Crack

Move up an easy slab to a hanging slab, then climb obvious crack to a rock spike belay. Take care, as the flake in the crack sounds very hollow!

Start below & Right of Mental Crack and folow easy right trending faint ridge (surrounded bt Gorse) to short steep cracked wall.

Climb the centre of the buttress to left of Tree Route & No Root underneath two small overlaps. Rock a bit suspect and gear not good.

Obvious left trending ramp in centre of face, approx 5m to left of Tree Route

Start as per Gorse Ramp up obvious ramp in centre of face. After approx 2m step out right around small overhanging bulge and take a fairly committing step up on good holds. Finish at obvious block.

Start as for Tree Route, but then climb the wall just to left of it by easiest line.

The corner on the left side of the prow, leading to a rowan tree. A good, well protected route, finish up the slab to the left of the tree.

Follow the 'S' shaped crack on the slab up to the roof. Cross the roof at it's widest point through an open, broken niche (crux). Good holds follow on the airy slab above, leading directly to the top.

Head directly up the slab, or up the broken right hand corner to reach the roof. Break out right using the dark crack (Crux section, steep but well protected), then step up and left across the slabs and overlaps (poorly protected).

Start approx 12m right of Abernyte Corner at the lowest point and climb short steep groove leading into larger left trending groove to the top. A pleasant route.

The worst route of the crag, and hard to access due to overgrown vegetation at the base. At the far right hand side of the crag start below an overhung prow. Climb right and pull steeply onto a hanging slab and continue to top. Very suspect Rock!


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