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Black Crag (Perth) All Trad climbing 17 routes in crag

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 17
17
FR
1b1c+2b2c+3b3c+4b4c+5b5c+6a+6b+6c+

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Description

Lies on the SW face of Black Hill overlooking Dunsinane Hill in the Sidlaws.

Access issues

The neighbours do not like to have cars parked on this road and have shown signs of dislikes in the past, so park at your own risk. Many of the laybys have been filled with boulders.

Approach

Find an empty layby without affecting gates or neighbours along the road near (56.468853, -3.268226). Head over the fences/gates northwest-bound from those coordinates. Keep the woodland to your left and you'll immediately find the crag on the right opposite the eastern edge of the woodland.

Another option is to park at Collace (56.474560, -3.288689) and access the crag from the north-west, leaving Dunsinane Hill on your right.

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Routes

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1
D ★ Pinnacle Left Trad 12m

Starting at the base of the pinnacle follow the obvious line to the left, exiting through the 'chimney' and over the chockstone behind the pinnacle.

2
VS 4c Pinnacle Face Trad 12m

There is a pinnacle to the Left of Mental Crack. Climb directly up to the pinnacle and then traverce right up onto the RH face

3
HVS 5a ★ Pinnacle Face - Direct Finish Trad 12m

As per pinnacle face. Good holds, you just need to find them! Couple of bold moves in quick succession above the the runner so best to move swift!

4
M Pinnacle Right Trad 12m

Start as for Pinnacle Face VS/HVS, but step right before the pinnacle to go around it via the easiest line up. Not to be confused with Pinnacle Corner D, which is left of MC Corner HS.

5
D Pinnacle Corner Trad 12m

Climb Corner / Crack to the Right of the pinnacle, and left of the MC Corner.

6
S MC Corner Trad 12m

Climb corner to Left of Mental Crack

7
VS 4b ★★ Mental Crack Trad 12m

Move up an easy slab to a hanging slab, then climb obvious crack to a rock spike belay. Take care, as the flake in the crack sounds very hollow!

8
VD Gorse Ridge Trad 13m

Start below & Right of Mental Crack and folow easy right trending faint ridge (surrounded bt Gorse) to short steep cracked wall.

9
HS 4b Gorse Buttress Trad 10m

Climb the centre of the buttress to left of Tree Route & No Root underneath two small overlaps. Rock a bit suspect and gear not good.

10
M Gorse Ramp Trad 11m

Obvious left trending ramp in centre of face, approx 5m to left of Tree Route

11
HS 4b No Gorse Trad 12m

Start as per Gorse Ramp up obvious ramp in centre of face. After approx 2m step out right around small overhanging bulge and take a fairly committing step up on good holds. Finish at obvious block.

12
D No Root Wall Trad 13m

Start as for Tree Route, but then climb the wall just to left of it by easiest line.

13
VD ★ Tree Route Trad 13m

The corner on the left side of the prow, leading to a rowan tree. A good, well protected route, finish up the slab to the left of the tree.

14
E2 5c ★ Tales of the unexpected Trad 15m

Follow the 'S' shaped crack on the slab up to the roof. Cross the roof at it's widest point through an open, broken niche (crux). Good holds follow on the airy slab above, leading directly to the top.

15
HVS 5a ★★ Abernyte Corner Trad 15m

Head directly up the slab, or up the broken right hand corner to reach the roof. Break out right using the dark crack (Crux section, steep but well protected), then step up and left across the slabs and overlaps (poorly protected).

16
S Windy Gap Groove Trad 20m

Start approx 12m right of Abernyte Corner at the lowest point and climb short steep groove leading into larger left trending groove to the top. A pleasant route.

17
VD Brittle Rock Way Trad 10m

The worst route of the crag, and hard to access due to overgrown vegetation at the base. At the far right hand side of the crag start below an overhung prow. Climb right and pull steeply onto a hanging slab and continue to top. Very suspect Rock!

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Scottish Sport Climbs Guidebook

Author(s): Andy Nisbet

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9781907233159

A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.

Buy
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