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Summary

The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long.

Description

The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket. "Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

Access issues

No issues. Respect the neighbours.

Approach

Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim. Limited parking beside the quarry. No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

note feb 2019 - there doesn’t seem to be any parking particularly near the quarry right now - we parked along the b961 beyond the entrance to Middleton estate in the woods and walked back down, 10 mins.

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Activity

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