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Elephant Rock Guide

  • Grade context: UK

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alonsoATCO

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Table of contents

1. Elephant Rock 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.675753, -2.466076

summary

Seacliff of mixed igneous rock that from certain angles actually does look like an elephant!

description

Routes mainly 15-22m in length and generally high quality. Mainly best for mid 6's up to 7b. High-quality gear [ie bolts] and all routes have lower offs. Gets sun till lunchtime. Mainly tidal but some routes available at any tide. As with any north east sea cliff, especially ones with caves, the routes can be greasy in humid weather though the more open routes and those above the tidal zone are often climbable.

access issues

no issues.

approach

Park on the minor road leading to Usan just beyond a white gate. Follow the track down under the rail bridge to the small clifftop graveyard. Take the steep and slippy (after rain) path down the south side of the Rock and then go through the first cave to access the east face.

At high tides when the through cave is awash then it is possible to access the crag by walking north from the graveyard along the field edge. At the north end of the bay a path leads down the grassy slope to the pebble beach. Don't be tempted down the gully which flanks the rock to the immediate north, it is wet and very unpleasant.

This approach also gives the best view of the "elephant" !

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Can't see the F Elephant Anywhere {FR} 7a Sport 14m
2 Pas de Charge {FR} 6b Sport 16m
3 Seeing is Not Believing {FR} 6c Sport 16m
4 Tale of the Tape {FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
5 Big Lug {FR} 6b+ Sport 16m
6 Doigt Attack {FR} 7b Sport 16m
7 Viagra Falls {FR} 6c+ Sport 18m
8 The X-philes {FR} 6c Sport 20m
9 Hanger {FR} 7a Sport 18m
10 Bodysnatcher {FR} 7b+ Sport 22m
11 Alien Breed {FR} 7b+ Sport 22m
12 Shapeshifter {FR} 7a Sport 14m
13 The Ex-Pert Route {FR} 6c Sport 20m
14 Pret's Buttock {FR} 7a Sport 20m
15 Smells like Team Spirit {FR} 7b Sport 22m
16 Hannibal {FR} 7b Sport 22m
17 It's aroute Jim! {FR} 7b Sport 8m
18 Butt Ugly Martians {FR} 7b Sport 11m
19 Big Girls Blouse {FR} 7a+ Sport 14m
20 Mahoots Mon {FR} 6c+ Sport 13m
21 Beware of the Wellyfish {FR} 6b Sport 13m
22 Don't Blame Me! {FR} 6a+ Sport 20m
23 It's not my Fault! {FR} 6a Sport 20m
24 Right Wing Extremist {FR} 6c Sport 14m
25 Pig on the Rig {FR} 6c+ Sport 14m
26 The Beggars are Coming to Town {FR} 6b Sport 14m
27 Hornblower {FR} 6c Sport 14m
28 Whistleblower {FR} 6b Sport 14m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
6a It's not my Fault! Sport 20m
6a+ Don't Blame Me! Sport 20m
Tale of the Tape Sport 15m
6b Beware of the Wellyfish Sport 13m
Pas de Charge Sport 16m
The Beggars are Coming to Town Sport 14m
Whistleblower Sport 14m
6b+ Big Lug Sport 16m
6c Hornblower Sport 14m
Right Wing Extremist Sport 14m
Seeing is Not Believing Sport 16m
The Ex-Pert Route Sport 20m
The X-philes Sport 20m
6c+ Mahoots Mon Sport 13m
Pig on the Rig Sport 14m
Viagra Falls Sport 18m
7a Can't see the F Elephant Anywhere Sport 14m
Hanger Sport 18m
Pret's Buttock Sport 20m
Shapeshifter Sport 14m
7a+ Big Girls Blouse Sport 14m
7b Butt Ugly Martians Sport 11m
Doigt Attack Sport 16m
Hannibal Sport 22m
It's aroute Jim! Sport 8m
Smells like Team Spirit Sport 22m
7b+ Alien Breed Sport 22m
Bodysnatcher Sport 22m
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