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Valkyrie Area

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 37

Seasonality

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Routes

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Grade Route

The steep and neglected crack in the right wall of the gully leads to the upper section of Via Dolorosa.

A devious oddity that grapples with the left-hand edge of the great roof. From the base of the crack of Swinger, ape right and climb a groove to a possible stance under the giant overhang. A flake on the left leads past the lip then stretch right, passing a flake, to climb the arete.

Starts on the higher ledge to the right and finishes up the dark and slippery Raven Rock Gully. Best split into 2 pitches otherwise rope drag may be a problem.

1 HVS 5a 15m
2 5b 8m

FA: Joe Brown & Don Whillans, 1951

Below the bulge at the top of Matinee follow the break out right on jams and thin feet to finish up the offwidth

From the large chockstone in Matinee, venture out left and up to a hidden jug, then finish more easily up the wing shaped flutes to the top.

A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish as for the normal route, or via the tricky bulging short-cut crack just right of the arete.

1 VS 4b 15m
2 4c 23m

Traditional hard Grit VS. Not for the novice or faint-hearted VS leader.

FA: Peter Harding & A Bowden Black, 1946

Follow the initial corner of Valkyrie right to the top.

Start 1m right of Valkyrie Corner, climb direct and trend right up the large flake rather than staying left in the corner. Finish route as normal.

From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy.

From the top of the flake on Licence to Run continue straight up to the hanging crack above past seeming blankness.

FA: Gary Cooper, 2000

The right-trending flakes in the wall above the Valkyrie stance are pumpy though good gear is available if you can stop!

A counter-diagonal across the wall, utilising the same holds and runners in the central section at License to Run.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Alan James & Adrian Berry

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9781873341988

A comprehensive guidebook describing the bouldering in the Peak District, covering well over 3,000 boulder problems. It includes all the areas from Wimberry in the north, through the Eastern Edges, to the Central Gritstone and Limestone and the grit of Staffordshire.

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Fri 3 Mar
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