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Summary

At the head of Porth-Claus Harbour you'll find some great climbs. Popular with groups but we'll worth a visit on a personal trip with an amazing slab wall.

Description

Dreamboat Annie is an amazing slab often found to have groups on it. It has a number of great climbs. It is affected by the tide but the block at the bottom can be used during high tide on a very calm sea.

Access issues

Allowed

Approach

Park in the car park at Portg-clais harbour, then walk follow the foot path along the left side of the Harbour. Once you're at the 'top' of this gental accent look for a path heading right through gorse. Then find yourself at the top of the crag.

Ethic inherited from Pembroke North

Routes

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Grade Route

A wide crack at the left of the crag.

Follow the line with some technical moves.

Classic route starting just to the left of diagonal crack, climb the middle of the slab up a impressive crack. A must do.

Follow the big diagonal crack until it moves around the corner. Make sure you're well protected on the corner becuase once you move around and upward you'll be struggling to find gear. Easy climbing though. All in all a great route.

Climb up past some pockets and a little left.

Climb to the diagonal break, then a thin crack.

Follow the crack away from the arete.

Right hand side of the slab before going around the corner. Very small and spaced out protection. Traverse right and climb the arete.

Far right of the crag, straight up the tight corner. A little unprotected at the top.

Once again starting on the diagonal crack then up the small cracks.

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Activity

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