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Nodes in Cardiff and Newport crags

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Cardiff and Newport crags

A collection of disparate crags scattered around the Cardiff and Newport areas.

Dinas Rock

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes. Also, some of the hardest bouldering in Wales.

Dinas Rock
Lower River
Dinas Rock Lower River
6C+ All Aboard

Down river from Boatman, is a dirty and muddy looking wall. Start on the low jug right of Lichen Up. Make a big move to a triangle slot and sharp sidepull, move up till tenuous last move of a poor gaston to a dirty jug. Looks pretty grim but after a bit of cleaning should be a worth wile problem.

6C+ Lichen Up

Down river from Boatman, is a dirty and muddy looking wall. Start low on the obvious mini-prow. Do a few compression moves before heading right onto the face finishing up the centre via an undercut. Finish matching the obvious large spike.

6A+ The Boatman's Traverse

Start left of the Boatman cave on good holds, traverse right on crimps to the jug.

7B The Boatman

Follow the river downstream behind the car park, past the changing area, to find a small cave on the right side. Sit start on the left of the cave, with a crimp and an undercut, finish on the good jug.

6C+ Captain Jack

Left of the boatman from a left hand gaston right hand undercut climb straight up tp join boatman trav at its half way point beta includes a wicked knee bar. Finish as for the boatman.

7A Boatman Start

Start as for boatman then left hand pinch come into sidepull next to it and make a powerful move into captain jack. Finish as for this

7B+ Fyfes Traverse

Start on jugs of boatman trav, instead of staying high drop right hand back to cap jack start holds and reverse boatman start to gain left hand pinch at start of boatman continue up this to finish.

Dinas Rock
Car Park
Dinas Rock Car Park
4 The Splinch

In the car park pretty much opposite the bench is a wall with an obvious ramp feature. left of the ramp sit start and gain obvious pinch and either fire or gain a intermediate topout

6A The Ramp

The obvious ramp feature sit start and follow to end topout.

6C Rampless

Just right of where the ramp is a small wall. Pull through the small crimps in the face from a sit

6A+ Railed

Start in middle of the last wall in the car park. Pull left to gain the obvious rail topout

5+ Car Park Original

Climb the middle of the last wall in the carpark direct on good holds topout.

6B Halfway

Just inside the fence is a clean wall. Climb and topout from obvious halfway holds. The sitter is a project and will be nails.

Dinas Rock
Cheesy Rider Area / Road Side

Morning sunshine and afternoon shade. Very sheltered area. Mixed grades on limestone and short walk in.

Dinas Rock Cheesy Rider Area / Road Side
VD Evening Wall
HD 4a Flake Wall
E2 5c Slickenside
E2 5c Frizzy Bits
HVS 5a Jeepers Creepers
E2 5c Sense of Humour
5+ Fromage Frais
Rob Roy
6b Cheesy Rider
6b Creme De Roquefort
6b Creme de Rockfall
5+ Scraping The Barrel
6a Tapping The Keg
6b Pinheads
Skin Ed
7a The Inflated Roundhead
6c Charlie's Rusks
6b The Deflated Dick-Head
6a Mr Potato Head
5+ Pot Head
6b The Dumbfounded Dunderhead
4c Smeghead

Rippled rock start

5b Bonehead
6a The Democratic Republic of Maesteg
6a Connect One

First climb on next sector of rock.

6b Southwest Guru
6c Deadly Nightshade
6c+ Screaming Lampshades
6b+ Big Ears Takes Flight

Line left side of shallow cave.

6b+ The Wake

Line right side of shallow cave.

6b+ Bob’s Birthday Party
6c Cujo
7a Thinner

First line on this sector after the ivy. Left variation at the top of Running Man.

7a The Running Man
6b Miss Alto

Slab into the steep hanging corner.

HVS For the Love of Ivy

Left leaning corner that crosses the line of Miss Alto.

7c The Regulators

Left Variant finish to The De Regulators along a hanging arete.

7a+ The De Regulators
6c+ Beware of Poachers

Right Variant finish to The De Regulators

6b+ Open Roads
6b+ Squash the Squaddie
6c+ Thousand Yard Stare
7a Pugsley
7a+ Munsterosity
7a Morticia

Right most route in this sector.

Dinas Rock
Kennelgarth Wall
Dinas Rock Kennelgarth Wall
Routes
Dinas Rock Kennelgarth Wall Routes
6c Technitis
7a By Proxy
7a+ Out Come The Freaks
7b Fings Ain't What They Used To Be
7b Kennelgarth
7b+ Siberian Husky
8a+ Tufa
7b+ Eugene's High Point
Dinas Rock Kennelgarth Wall
Bouldering
Dinas Rock Kennelgarth Wall Bouldering
6B Achilles
5+ Byte Size
6C Monkey Magic
6B Monkey Boy
7A Banana Boy
7A Paper Boy
6A+ Puppy Love
6C Dogtown
6C+ Gentle Jess
7A Gentle Jess Sit Start
7A+ The Groove
7A Infidel
7A+ The Mongrel Mob
6A+ Poodle Traverse
6C Poodle Traverse (Footless)
6B Great White Starke
6B Starke Attack
7B The Magic Cat
7A Riding Hannah
7C Fat Cat Roof
7C+ Fat Cat Direct
6C The Honey Pot
7C Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extension
7A The Blessing
7A+ The Blessing + Fyfe Extension
7C Taylor Made

Showing 1 - 100 out of 567 nodes.

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