Nodes in Cardiff and Newport crags

A collection of disparate crags scattered around the Cardiff and Newport areas.

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes. Also, some of the hardest bouldering in Wales.

Down river from Boatman, is a dirty and muddy looking wall. Start on the low jug right of Lichen Up. Make a big move to a triangle slot and sharp sidepull, move up till tenuous last move of a poor gaston to a dirty jug. Looks pretty grim but after a bit of cleaning should be a worth wile problem.

Down river from Boatman, is a dirty and muddy looking wall. Start low on the obvious mini-prow. Do a few compression moves before heading right onto the face finishing up the centre via an undercut. Finish matching the obvious large spike.

Start left of the Boatman cave on good holds, traverse right on crimps to the jug.

Follow the river downstream behind the car park, past the changing area, to find a small cave on the right side. Sit start on the left of the cave, with a crimp and an undercut, finish on the good jug.

Left of the boatman from a left hand gaston right hand undercut climb straight up tp join boatman trav at its half way point beta includes a wicked knee bar. Finish as for the boatman.

Start as for boatman then left hand pinch come into sidepull next to it and make a powerful move into captain jack. Finish as for this

Start on jugs of boatman trav, instead of staying high drop right hand back to cap jack start holds and reverse boatman start to gain left hand pinch at start of boatman continue up this to finish.

In the car park pretty much opposite the bench is a wall with an obvious ramp feature. left of the ramp sit start and gain obvious pinch and either fire or gain a intermediate topout

The obvious ramp feature sit start and follow to end topout.

Just right of where the ramp is a small wall. Pull through the small crimps in the face from a sit

Start in middle of the last wall in the car park. Pull left to gain the obvious rail topout

Climb the middle of the last wall in the carpark direct on good holds topout.

Just inside the fence is a clean wall. Climb and topout from obvious halfway holds. The sitter is a project and will be nails.

Morning sunshine and afternoon shade. Very sheltered area. Mixed grades on limestone and short walk in.

Rippled rock start

First climb on next sector of rock.

Line left side of shallow cave.

Line right side of shallow cave.

First line on this sector after the ivy. Left variation at the top of Running Man.

Slab into the steep hanging corner.

Left leaning corner that crosses the line of Miss Alto.

Left Variant finish to The De Regulators along a hanging arete.

Right Variant finish to The De Regulators

Right most route in this sector.