Lake George, Rock climbing

YDS

5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a 5.12c 5.13a

Map

10 5 9 8 1 2 7 3 4 6

1 Shelving Rock 2 Sleeping Beauty Mountain 3 Stewart's Ledge 4 New Buck 5 Rogers Rock 6 Potash Cliff 7 Eagle Cliff 8 Barton High Cliffs 9 Cove Boulders 10 Devil's Washdish

Directions in Google Maps

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Seasonality

Summary

Anorthosite

Great area with climbing at all levels, close to swimming and free camping. A long climb season, short and multi pitch routes, and a mix of sport and trad make this area a real gem.

Description

Ten areas that include short pitches of both sport and trad, 700' walls for multi-pitch, and bouldering make Lake George a great area for everyone's climbing interests. Camping along the long dirt road on the way to the crag is free and first come, first served. Cooling off is possible via a short walk down to the lakeside. Bustling nearby town of Lake George has all amenities you could possibly need. When I've been here, it's never been busy - a real hidden gem.

Access issues

Road is long and dirt - can get very muddy and is almost impassible if the spring is wet. Dry in summer. Single lane road for two-way traffic, so be wary of on-coming cars.

Approach

From Route 87, take 149 toward Fort Ann. Turn left onto Buttermilk Falls Road immediately after passing Vertical Farm. Follow Buttermilk Falls Road until a slight left turns it into Sly Pond Road. Continue to follow, keeping right at the juction with Millers Way to stay on Sly Pond. At the intersection with Hog Town Road, continue straight as the road becomes Shelving Rock Road. Keep left at the Y to stay on Shelving Rock Road. Free primitive camping is along this part of the road. Parking along the road in designated areas only.

Where to stay

Primitive camping along Shelving Rock Road first come, first served. If not, there's lots of camping areas around Lake George. There are many hotels, motels and the like in the town of Lake George, but book early because the summer gets busy in that area for reasons other than climbing.