Routes in Alaska

The West Buttress has been derided as "the Denali Iditarod" or "the Scenic Loop." However, this is in context to Denali being fondly referred to as the "Mid-life Crisis Mountain" --- in 2011, the average age of a Denali climber was exactly 40 years old. While there is always some truth to nicknames, many people aspire to climb the West Buttress and the climb is undoubtedly considered as an exceptional mountaineering challenge. Nowhere in the world does one travel with so much gear over so much vertical in such a hostile environment. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of "The Butt" leave very little margin for error (the lower glacier in warm conditions, Windy Corner, the Autobahn, Denali Pass, and the Summit Ridge). Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to Denali's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses. (from summitpost.org)

For some Denali afficionados, the West Rib is the next step after completing the West Buttress or Karstens Ridge, but it represents a significant step up in skill and experience. The route involves moderate to steep snow as well as mixed snow and rock. The West Rib is a commiting route, but does offer retreat/escape points along the way. The West Rib offers steeper climbing and fewer crowds then its neighbor to the west. The Rib is not known for its technical challenges, but more for its sustained steepness and appeal for climbing on Denali's south face.

The West Rib offers two variations --- the Complete West Rib or the West Rib Cutoff. The complete Rib starts in the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and is the most dangerous portion of the climb with respect to objective hazards (avalanche, crevasse). If conditions allow entrance into the NE fork, then a 9,000 ft ridge climb comprises the Complete West Rib. Most climbers choose to do the West Rib Cutoff, which ascends the standard West Buttress route until 14,200 ft. At 14,000 ft you leave the crowds of the West Buttress and traverse to the West Rib gaining the ridge at around 15,700 ft. You then ascent the upper ridge making one camp along the way.

The Cassin Ridge is today considered a "50 Classic" of North America and was first climbed in 1961 by a group led by Italian alpinist Riccardo Cassin, for which the route is named. The Cassin Ridge rises 8000 feet from the very bottom of Denali's South face to within a few yards of the true summit of the mountain. Steep snow, ice, and mixed climbing make this one of the most sought-after big mountain alpine climbs in the world. Climbers completing the Cassin Ridge find themselves in a small fraternity of elite Alaska climbers. The route ascends the prominent ridge on the south face and is steep, demanding, and committing --- escape routes are few and far between. As a result, only the most experienced climbers will think of attempting it.

The Karstens Ridge/Muldrow Glacier was the route of first ascent and used to be the standard route before Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route. This route is similar in difficulty as the West Buttress, but receives far less traffic. Expeditions are, on average, a week longer than West Buttress trips because of the longer approach from Wonder Lake. More adventurous climbers will attempt "the Traverse," by ascending the West Buttress and descending Karstens Ridge or vice versa. The Traverse is more strenuous than doing either route alone because climbers must haul all equipment and supplies over Denali Pass whereas climbers doing one route or another typically cache equipment and supplies that are not needed higher up on the mountain.

A long ridge / ice climb with ice up to 70 degrees. Total time up to 7 days. Vertical gain 2,450m climbing distance 8,000m. Alaska grade 3+.

A3, 5.9 mixed and vertical to overhanging ice. Hanging bivouacs (porta-ledge) or small ledges.

on West Buttress, South troll

on Royal Tower

This uber-classic couloir route is the most crowded on the Tooth, and probably sits second in popularity within the Range only to the West Buttress of Denali.

Climb M3-AI3 and easy snow to a few crux options around 300m up. The FA variant through slabs and snow mushrooms is rarely done. Instead, chose between the left ice at WI4 (funnels sluff and spindrift) or the crack system at M4 on the right. Continue up moderate ice and snow to the col, where the fixed rap anchors disappear.

Move onwards over a corniced ridge to the summit.

The descent involves 20-22 rappels from the col, and bypasses the leftwards dogleg of the first pitch by rappelling straight down.

While slightly harder than Ham And Eggs, this route tends to hold higher quality ice due to being more shaded, and you get to get away from the crowds.

Note, however, that if you are climbing behind other parties, the upper pitches through "The Narrows" offer no reprieve from falling ice for both leader and belayer, and even snow from parties on the col will be funnelled down hundreds of meters.

In good conditions, the entire crux is a slightly overhanging curtain of ice. In leaner years there may be almost no ice, however the mixed climbing is well protected.

Rap on plentiful rock anchors. A 70m rope will hit bullseye more often than a 60m. Do not rap the first 2-3 pitches due to poor pro, instead move climbers right and rap from a chockstone over the rocky buttress.

Complex and often heavily corniced ridge traverse that rises from the Ruth Glacier and continues past the West Summit of the Tooth to the Main Summit. After passing the West Summit, both commitment and complexity of the route increase.

Follow the ridge. Some crevasse danger.

From base camp head to the obvious col between Frances and Peak 12,200. Climb 200m of 60-degree snow, then follow the ridge up. Keep in mind that the ridge is often crevassed and you will need to down-solo the start couloir as there aren't many options for leaving anchors.