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The Farmhouse

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

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Description

This wonderful crag features high quality rock with many different types routes - long, short, steep, slab......... there is something to keep everyone happy. There are several main areas. The Sunny side is about 300 feet high and a couple hundred yards wide of vertical or slightly overhang high quality rock (South-east facing). The shaded Prow and the Bowling Alley areas face north with some serious steep and difficult climbing. The Pumpkin Patch and Vineyard have been densely developed over the last few years by a dedicated group of Sierra Vista locals and have grades ranging from 5.6-5.12+

Development at the cliffs is ongoing. Be on the lookout for fixed lines and please stay off of routes that are unfinished or red-tagged.

Access issues

Access trail crosses a private ranch

You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant, as long as we don't disturb his land and his cattle. Please be respectful and keep this access open. DO NOT DRIVE IN THE PRIVATE LAND AND DO NOT LEAVE ANY GATES OPEN.

Approach

From Tucson: take I-10 southeast to highway 83. Follow on Hwy 83 south past Sonoita unto Hwy 82. The turnoff for The Farmhouse is 14.7 miles from the junction of 82 and 83. Alternatively, stay in I-10 to Benson and turn south in Hwy 90 towards Sierra Vista for 19 miles. Then turn west on 82 towards Sonoita for about 4 miles. There are two different approaches to the crag:

1- East Approach: Turn onto a dirt driveway with a gate on the south side of 82 next to a “No Passing Zone” (about three miles from Hwy 90). This is a construction site within private land. DO NOT BLOCK OR DRIVE IN THE GATE. You can park outside on a the dirt road to the left of the gate. Cross the gate and follow the dirt road for a few hundred feet, then cross the grass field to a faint trail following a wash. Cross the wash onto a grassy flat area up to hillside on the east side of the rock formation. Climb the hill up to the cliff band. This is a spring and fall crag, but can be climbed at during the winter. Most of the routes are in the shade and never see the sun. Plan on an hour approach, the last forty minutes of which are up a steep hill.

2- North Approach: Park on a turnoff on the north side of 82 just east of a bridge four miles from Hwy 90. This is also an exit to a dirt road so DO NOT BLOCK IT. From here cross and walk along the road into the wash under the bridge. This is private property but the land owner is OK with using the wash. PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL so we keep this privilege. Follow the wash for about 1/8 mile into a large open area and find a cairn on the south side. Follow faint trail and cairns across a boulder field and steep terrain all the way to the base of the crag. This trail is much shorter but very steep at the end (some serious trail works needs to be done), but is also in the north hill so it will be on the shade in the mornings. Distance from car to the crag is about a mile, it takes about 45 minutes, but times are getting much better as the trails improve. 8

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