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The Coop

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

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Summary

The Coop is the alcove just left (east) of the Bowling Alley, where the majority of the initially developed routes at the Farmhouse were. The Coop features routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12d. Currently climbing exists on every wall in this jam packed little cove. Routes range from 45 to 85 ft.

Due to the cylindrical nature of The Coop, there are almost always two to three walls in the shade throughout the summer months. Winter will almost certainly mean dark times for this sector as well as the rest of the north walls of the farmhouse. While development is welcome in this area, please contact the existing developers before assuming a project has been completed, or starting a new route.

Access issues inherited from The Farmhouse

Access trail crosses a private ranch

You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant, as long as we don't disturb his land and his cattle. Please be respectful and keep this access open. DO NOT DRIVE IN THE PRIVATE LAND AND DO NOT LEAVE ANY GATES OPEN.

Approach

Follow the approach beta on the main page which directs you through the wash and towards the first set of large boulders. At the first set of boulders bust left (east) and follow carins up the low angle toe of the hillside. As the angle steepens, the trail begins switching back and forth across the hillside below the tallest section of the wall. At about two thirds of the way up the incline, cut across the wash and continue switching back several more times toward the base of the Bowling Alley. The final section of trail crosses a small rock outcropping and deposits you in the cholla forest below the bowling alley. The Coop is just around the corner from here.

30 min up, 25 min down.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Left most route at the Coop. Varied and fun climbing.

FA: JW & 2019, 2019

It'll take more than brute strength to take home the blue ribbon on this climb.

Prize Rooster climbs the stunningly clean, featured, and steep dihedral on the left side of The Coop. With thoughtful stemming sequences and amazing features for the entire 70 feet it's easy to see why this one won the prize.

FA: Kemper Brightman & Jilian Wereb

Begin by mounting three tiers of ledges. The last of which requires a spectacular mantle. From here big pulls on sculpted pockets will lead you to a hold at the top of the spine. Now the fun begins. Tackle a nails hard crux sequence that lasts for two bolts through a sloper with a chert nodule thumb catch, narrow slot crimps, chert knobs, an undercling, high feet, and ends in stab to a unique pocket off desperate feet in a subtle dihedral. A small climb that will leave you feeling spatchcocked!

This route ascends the short but prominent spine on the left side of the back wall of The Coop.

6 bolts to chains. Unclip the first draw after you clip the second for your belayers comfort.

All Cooped Up climbs the obvious series of pods and pockets in the back left corner of the Coop. Creatively stem and press your way up the first half of the route using a variety of holds along the way. Where the angle steepens, the route turns up the heat, and a couple longer moves between good holds are required before reaching the chains.

Established on a 100 degree day in the summer, the name is a reference to the feeling of being trapped in the shade of the coop, unable to fathom the brutally sunny hike back to the car at the end of the day

All Cooped Up is the series of light colored pods in the back left corner of The Coop, adjacent to the black slab

Start on an incut rail in light colored rock below a large black flake. Ride the flake for a few moves, clip the second bolt and decipher your transition left onto the slab. Once established on the slab, continue through delicate moves past the third bolt in a section of lower angle rock to a slot above. From the slot, clip the fourth bolt and commit to the final crux of the route. The problem can be solved by going either left or right past the fifth bolt.

Begins below a large flake on the black slab of the coop. The first route right of the ovious pocketed corner of "All Cooped Up"

Cold Chicken and Cheese packs a lot of climbing into 50 ft. It starts with some tech funk before easing off through the middle section that deposits you at a nice rest just before the final boulder problem - exactly how will you get yourself over to those juicy chert nodules? Solve the riddle and climb the final spicy runout section on your way to glory. A shiny surprise waits near the chains.

This is the middle climb and the only one with a fixed chain draw (bolt 2).

6 bolts to lower off anchor. There is a chain draw on the difficult to hang second bolt.

Begins just left of Look at all those Chicken and a short pillar at the base of the wall.

Begin by mounting a small ledge. The climbing becomes strenuous almost immediately with almost no down pulling holds and culminates in a tricky lip encounter before pulling on to a final slab that is the top third of the route.

This route has so many different types of holds on it and quite a few very fun and engaging sequences.

permadraws to chains w/ lower-offs

Begin by stick clipping the first bolt and making your way to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to it's terminus and pull left onto the ledge. Clip the bolt in the roof and head left through a couple thin holds and a slot that deposit you at an incut but hidden jug. Move back right and cruise past two more bolts up the slab.

The left of the two routes on the right side of the coop. The right most route is 'winner wwinner'. The route climbs the flake feature to the roof, and the slab above.

This route will throw all kinds of tricks your way. Begin with moderate layback moves and high feet. The laybacks give way to small pods and pockets just before the angle kicks back and holdable features become sparse. Get funky with your knees and learn to love underclings if you have any hope of making it through the crux. The climbing stays pumpy until the end, and one could surely blow it above the most difficult moves. The end of this climb is a true cherry on top with some amazing mail slots and bullet stone on the grey arete.

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