Routes in Sierra Nevada for selected grade

Third bolted route from the left. Goes up the large black water streak.

To the right of Fix the Madness (with which it shares an anchor). Goes right, then left.

This is the far left crack climb. It is 5.7 or so. Easy and straight forward but good for working your trad skills. Standard rack with nuts and mid to smaller cams.

Brad: Short route. Don't know why we put this up. John: I know, because it's a great but short route.

Third bolted route from the left.

First of four sport climb (from the left). Begins lower than the other three routes.

Crack on the right side of the slab. Start slightly overhung.

Climb the low-angle crack(s) on the arete of the first rock.

Pro to 3". No fixed top anchor. Walk off descent.

Off-width / chimney to bolted top anchor shared with Desire. 6" pro!

Pro to 4".

Not quite as interesting as the variations, the original zig-zagging line still serves up fantastic variety of climbing at an easier grade.

1. 110 ft (5.7) Start up the vertical hand crack up a dihedral to a small ledge. Follow the obvious large flake past 2 bolts to the large ledge. Traverse left to the start of the second pitch. Variations (5.8 and 5.9+) begin at the base of the vertical off-width / fist crack. Continue left for the original second pitch. Bring one or two pieces of 4' pro for the flake and place them carefully.

2. 90 ft (5.7) Follow the diagonal crack and ramp back to the right, passing under the roof and around to the right before traverse horizontally back left. Follow the fingers/hands splitter crack to the bolted anchor.

Chains at the right of the large ledge above the first pitch allow you to top-rope the first pitch as well as the interesting face climbing just right of the first pitch. If top-roping the first pitch, use the last bolt as a redirect. Resist any temptation to belay the second pitch from these chains. Instead, traverse left and build an anchor before starting the second pitch.

Descend in two rappels. The lip of the roof can snag a rope, so be careful when pulling the rope after the first rappel.

Pro to 3".

1. 80 ft (5.3) Climb the ramp up the right side of The Fang to roof at the base of the chimney.

2. 70 ft (5.8 R) Shuffle your way up the squeeze chimney to the next belay. Unless you're racking #4 Big Bros, get your head set for a 50 ft runout.

3. 150 ft (5.7) Face climbing up and left takes you to a narrow gully ending in the South Notch.

4. 140 ft (5.7) (Same last pitch as 'Scheister'[20650525].) Starting from the north side of the notch, climb the arch past one bolt and continue up a narrow gully to a tunnel. Pass through the tunnel to the west side, where several 4th class and 5.easy variations lead to the Middle Summit.

Walk off descent.

Variations:

• (5.10a) Once you reach the notch at the top of P3, take a brief detour up the 'South Summit Bolt Ladder'[241238709] for an additional summit.
• (5.8) Instead passing through the tunnel on P4, climb up and right past the bolt on the east face to stem your way to the summit.

Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it.

Starts up the ramp left of 'Crushed Velvet'[241259787] and 'Farley'[20650705].

1. 140 ft (5.7) Stem the chimney, reaching in deep to place gear, until it narrows to a squeeze chimney, then pull out onto the face for the crux. Continue up and right to the standing belay on a large ledge.

2. 160 ft (5.7) Excellent lieback and jamming leads up dihedrals to the South Notch.

3. 140 ft (5.7) Finish on the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297].

Walk off descent.

Variations:

• Extend P1 to the bolted belay atop P2 of 'Crushed Velvet'[241259787].
• See 'Harding's Chimney' for variations after the 2nd pitch.

1. 110 ft (5.7) Climb the obvious corner ramp and chimney right of 'Captain Fingers'[20651197] to a belay below the roof.

2. 100 ft? (5.7) Continue up and right through the chimney past some roofs to the North Notch.

Pro to 3". Walk of descent. Loose chockstones have resulted in injury on this blocky, marginal route. Use caution.

Pro: 0.5" to 3.5".

Pro: 0.5" to 2.5".

Pro: 0.5" to 4".

The giant squeeze chimney facing west from the Left Over Bun.

Between East Face Route and North Ridge. Belayer should wear helmet. Sling every piece and be careful! Everything is loose.

A classic line up the "Upper Spire".

1. 5.7, 140ft. Climb through a scary series of hollow booming flakes to single solid flake about half way up, then up this until it ends with a small ledge at a horizontal break.

2. 5.6, 50ft. Step left from the belay to a wide crack. Climb mostly the face left of the crack and left edge of the crack, reaching right into the crack to place gear.

Climb takes large cams, generally 2-each BD Camalots #2, #3, and #4 (or equivalents) as well as a normal rack.

A great first pitch, and easier, but still very pleasant pitches above.

1. 50m (5.7) Up the obvious crack (which is mostly easier than it looks) to belay on the obvious big ledge (keep some mid-size cams). Can be split into two (or even three) pitches.

2. 50m (5.6) Hardish move to gain face, clip bolt out right, then up as you will to a natural belay wherever you like.

3. 30m (4th class) Up as you will to the top.

This is a 2-pitch climb. You will need a 60 meter rope.

The first pitch of this climb begins with an obvious crack heading up and slightly right. The crack breaks into two about 100 feet up, take the right crack. Shortly after the split, it becomes impossible to find gear placement, but don't worry, you run up this to an 8' wide by 30' long shelf which serves as your belay station.

On the second pitch, located on the far left side (looking at the face) of the shelf, the climbing starts easy and turns into a not so pleasant offwidth crack that about half your body fits into. Although you can't place gear through this section, its a secure climb. Once past this, its a run-up to the top where you can belay off of a tree.

A classic line offering a little bit of everything.

1. 30m (5.6) Up the nice slab following two diagonal seams (exceptionally thin gear - this would be a bold lead) to a bolted rap anchor. Can be skipped or TRed via a 4th class corner system up to the right.

2. 15m (5.6) Nice slab past 3 bolts, then step right beneath the precarious perched blocks to a bolted rap anchor.

3. 15m (5.2) Up the wide corner then left (watch out for a large loose flake) to the main corner (natural anchor) just near a small tree.

4. 55m (5.7) The money pitch - follow the awesome narrow corner past several overlaps to a bolted rap anchor. Can descend from here with double ropes (recommended).

5. 30m (5.7) Up and right past the obvious "fang" of rock, through several overlaps and past a number of death blocks, to the top. Walk off.

The 5th pitch is dangerous and not recommended - best to abseil off after P4.

Sustained quality climbing, and solid at the grade. Gear plus 2 bolts to a double bolt lower off.