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Mt. Hubris

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 18
  • Aka: The Ogre

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Grade Route

FFA: Chuck Pratt & John Ohrenschall, 1955

  1. 200' (5.7)

  2. 165' (5.10d)

  3. 165' (5.10a R)

  4. 100' (5.9+)

  5. P5 of Cosmic Wall.

FFA: Stan Miller, Tim Loughlin, Peter Chesko & Todd Burrill

After P1 of Cosmic Wall, move left to climb inside the ogre's eye. Continue up, rejoining Cosmic Wall at the base of P4.

FFA: Tim Loughlin, Todd Burrill & Sean Kinney, 1992

Stay high on the saddle to follow faint trails through the manzanita from the Crags Trail towards the descent gully. Skirt left around the base of Mt Hubris until you reach the large tree at the base of the right-facing dihedral that marks the beginning of the route.

  1. 180ft (5.5) Follow the right-facing dihedral to its end at a chockstone and large tree (optional belay). Continue up the low angle face to belay from a smaller tree.

  2. 110ft (5.6) Continue up and right along a broken dike, passing a piton. When level with the ogre's eye, make an airy crux traverse right to the bolted anchor on the comfy ledge.

  3. 200ft (5.6) Reverse the traverse, then head up low angle run-out slabs to a left-facing dihedral. Pass a pair of bad bolts and continue up and left to a large ledge with a tree.

  4. 160ft (5.6) Large flakes lead up to a notch just below the final ridge line. Belay from gear.

  5. 140ft (5.4) Follow the ridge line to the bolted summit and soak up the exposure.

Descend the NE face with a 90ft rappel from chains, then an 80ft rappel from rings. Follow the 3rd class gully back down to meet the saddle approach trail in the manzanita.

Gear: 60m rope, standard rack to 3" plus long slings for horns and thread-throughs.

FFA: Michael Zanger, Chris Bonington & Andre Nowacki, 1979

  1. (5.7 R)

  2. (5.9)

  3. (5.0) Traverse left to link up with P4 of Cosmic Wall.

FFA: Tim Loughlin & Linda Ryan, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Evan Wisheropp

Date: 2022

ISBN: 978-1-938393-46-4

Wolverine:
A compact yet comprehensive guide, Redwood Burl introduces climbers and boulderers to the extensive vertical opportunities in northwest California.
  • Provides approach times
  • Features beautiful color photos, helpful maps and icons depicting sun and rain aspects

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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