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Summary

One of the closest sport climbing area to Washington DC with very short approach.

Description

New guidebook is available on rakkup.com. Download the app and keep all your guidebooks handy. Once dowloaded, app requires no cell service to operate. See trails, beta, topos, and get gps waypoint navigation. http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/elizabeth-furnace-rock-climbing/

Approach

From US 66 take exit 6 and go South on Rt 522/340. After crossing a wide bridge over a river turn right on route 55 West towards Front Royal. After 5.1 miles turn left onto State Rt 678. After 1.7 miles look for about ten cars parking on the right side of the road. Trail on the other side of the road leads to local swimming hole.

Walk back along the road for about 200 yards, with the river on your right.The trail will be on the left side of the road. 100 more yards and you are at the first climb.

Ethic inherited from Elizabeth Furnace

Please practice leave no trace, do not top rope off of fixed gear except to lower or rappel.

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Routes

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FA: ACB Bob Graver, 14 Jun 2013

First route at crag, follow 5 bolts to chains. Don't traverse to rest, keep the pump going climb directly to 3rd bolt and crux. Top ropers clip 2nd or 3rd bolt to avoid swinging.

FA: Scott Smith & Travis Signor, 26 Jun 2017

First and leftmost bolted climb on the approach trail. Follow 3 bolts up lower 2/3 of the climb which is at about 5.5 level. The upper 1/3 is a sustained 5.8 on good holds through overhanging terrain.

Start just right of I Love Big Jugs and little to the left of Fortis. Climb on easy terrain 2/3 up the cliff to a set of two roofs. Pull the roofs.

To the right of Ne Plus Ultra, first route under the roof.

Just right of Fortis on the right side of the wall on arete with large roof on the right. Climb on the right of the arete to good holds under a roof. Pull through a set of three closely spaced roofs on good (although hard to find) holds to easier terrain.

To the left of "Leading Should Feel This Way". Gear placement can be sketchy. Bolt will not protect from ledge fall. Climb towards the crack on the roof and out . Gain a stance, then follow the pockets past two run out bolts to ring anchors.

High first bolt, nice roof move between second and third bolts (crux). Gaily ahead rest of the way.

FA: Chad Heddleston

Start of Big Balls, continue up the roof with 2 perma-draws to a walk off finish.

Start at a block leaning against a tree just left of Fat Bastard. Discontinuance is a new name after original "Continuance" climb was drastically altered by a rock fall. Climb easy terrain to the roof 1/3 up the climb. This section is not protected by bolts and some trad gear would make it safer. Pull through the crux few feet above the roof to easier terrain.

This is the last bolted route before the trail begins to ascend the hill on the right side of the crag, just in front of two large trees. Start at the right side of the wall under a large roof up high. Easy climbing leads to the roof. Pull the roof with 2 bolts to good holds at the anchors.

3 bolt sport climb. Farthest bolted climb on the Headwall. Follow trail heading to top and look for big roof start. Begin straight up the roof to the first bolt. Smearing on the left wall is OFF.

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