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Grade Route
1 5.10 35m
2 5.8 30m
3 5.10 10m
4 5.8 20m

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

  1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

  2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

  3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

  4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

FA: Sibley & Roos 1969


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