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Access: COVID-19 Restrictions

For up to date COVID-19 restrictions in the Bay Area, please refer to the Bay Area Climber's Coalition.

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Created about a year ago

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Description

The status of climbing and bouldering on this outcrop is unclear - while issue GC/OH-3 in the SF Parks & Rec Significant Natural Resource Area (pages 6.3-12 and 6.3-13) discusses climbing with specific reference to other outcrops in the park, access to this outcrop is not clearly specified. Climbers are requested to stay away from this area, while the access status is clarified.

The obvious buttress with the dark overhang on the downhill side.

Access issues inherited from Glen Canyon

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

Ethic inherited from Glen Canyon

There are no bolts of any kind, anywhere, nor do there need to be any. If you need a top rope, bring a rack and slings (there's great gear for most of the problems).

Stick to made tracks as much as possible.

Bring a plastic bag and spend 15 mins at the end of your session picking up the trash that non-climbers throw off the top - that helps keep the place open to climbing.

Routes

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Grade Route

A sketchy descent / ascent route. Vastly better to walk in & out to the right (facing the cliff).

Has been bouldered / soloed, but has a terrible landing so is better top roped (medium to large cams and a slung boulder well back from the top - watch for poison oak).

Hard!

The blunt arete and V-notch surfboard-esque overhang. Deceptive!

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