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Slate Nation

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Description

Shorter routes on grey and yellowish rock, some with overhanging starts. Most routes start on a band of rock a little above the canyon.

Access issues inherited from Homestead

The area between gate 2 and 3 is private land, please behave respectfully!

https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/homestead

Approach

Follow the canyon and take the second well marked path up to the left. Follow the cliff along some hand-rail ropes. You might also access the sector from above using the upper approach trail and the gully between Finland Terrace and Slate Nation.

Ethic inherited from Homestead

When visiting and climbing at the Homestead, please help to maintain the climber trails used to access the climbing and along the base of the walls. Do a little bit of work each time you come and before you know it there will be well-defined and easy to maneuver and follow trails for all to benefit from.

If you choose to add routes to the area, please do your part to continue the Homestead tradition and use good hardware when equipping your routes. Plan your bolt placements to use solid sections of rock and to allow for minimal rope drag. All routes should have lowering anchors at the end of the routes and dangerously loose rock should be removed from the routes. To date there has been no chipping or gluing at the crag. Please keep it that way.

Thanks to Louie Anderson for providing all the info!!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

This route is found just left of where the lower Slate Nation trail first reaches the wall. Look for a line of bolts right of a right-facing corner/weakness. A few thinner moves down low lead to easier climbing above.

FA: Roach

FA: Iannuzzi

FA: Rosholt

FA: Iannuzzi

FA: Auxier

Short, delicate climb on stellar blank rock.

FA: Rosholt

This is the first route right of a Palo Verde tree, and has a hard-looking start. Difficult moves passing the 2nd bolt (and possibly clipping the 3rd bolt) lead to a moderate finish.

FA: Auxier

FA: Covington & Auxier

Shares anchors with K-9 Karma.

FA: Jeff

Clean, gray face.

FA: Hamilton

Contrived at grade

FA: Auxier

FA: MacLane

Short stiff crux getting onto the gray face.

Identified by old school bolts. Powerful start.

Powerful start using underclings.

FA: Iannuzzi

Sidepulls to dihedral with crack.

FA: Rosholt

FA: J Bone & Iannuzzi

This route is found between Head Cleaner and Strive Dreams, and it culminates in the roofs near the top of the wall. This steep face climbing leads to a cramped rest under the first tier of roofs. The sequence necessary to overcome all of the ceilings provides an “ape-like” exercise in hanging-on. 8 bolts, 55 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, TB & DC, 2011

Steps right around the arête. Appears to be fully equipped.

This route is located right of Strive Dreams, and approximately 15 left of Infectious Groove. Look for a line of bolts that begin above the thinnest section of the traverse ledge in that area. It is recommended that the belayer set up on the rocky ledge below to get a good stance. A steep section of good holds leads to smaller, but very positive edges that reach a shallow left-facing corner. Move up and out right, to where the angle finally relents, with some giant finishing buckets. 7 bolts, 55 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, TB & DC, 2011

Right angling crack corner

FA: Larry

FA: Rosholt

Ends below roof; use caution near third bolt.

FA: Rosholt

Great climbing with odd bolting.

FA: Holt

FA: Holt

Just right of Beautiful Noise is this fine line. Although short, the entire route is demanding, and on great rock. 5 bolts, 45 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, TB, DB & EG, Mar 2011

To the right of the previous climb is an obvious hole located 8 feet up the wall. A very technical section of gymnastic climbing reaches easier moves just before the anchors. 6 bolts, 45 feet to anchors. (SA, TB, MH, March 2011)

FA: SA, TB & MH, Mar 2011

A great route, with a fine roof crux. A short right-facing dihedral leads to a small roof. The rock above is beautiful all the way to the anchors. 7 bolts, 55 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, TB, EG & DB, Mar 2011

This is the last route before the ledge system at the base rises up and becomes more defined. Start below a prominent hole about 10 feet up, and do a series of technical boulder moves to reach the small roof. Easier climbing reaches the anchors. It is very difficult to find a clipping stance for bolt #3, so have a very attentive belayer!

FA: SA

This climb begins where the base ledge widens out. Although quite short, it makes up for its lack of height in sustained, bouldery cruxes. Strenuous, technical climbing passes 4 bolts, finally relenting for the fifth and last bolt.

FA: SA & RJ, Jan 2012

Locate this route by the small roof seen 15 feet above ground level, with a line of bolts going up and over the center of the roof. Turning the roof provides the distinct crux, but getting to it, and moving past it, add to the pump factor. The FA occurred during an incoming freezing rainstorm, hence the name.

FA: SA, TB & BB, Feb 2013

Located approximately 10 feet right of Sleet Happens, this route is found just right of a broken dihedral. Like its neighbors to the left, this line is short but intricately demanding.

FA: SA & DC, Mar 2012

Loose rock near top.

FA: Karabin & Lee

Pocketed roof to sharp, gray face.

FA: Karabin & Lee

Climbs recessed groove feature

Short, triangular slab

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