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Finland Terrace

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 66

Seasonality

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Description

Technical climbs on vertical and slightly overhangig good quality rock of varying length.

Access issues inherited from Homestead

The area between gate 2 and 3 is private land, please behave respectfully!

https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/homestead

Approach

Same as Slate Nation or using the upper access trail and the way down into the gully to arrive directly at the beginning of Finland Terrace.

Ethic inherited from Homestead

When visiting and climbing at the Homestead, please help to maintain the climber trails used to access the climbing and along the base of the walls. Do a little bit of work each time you come and before you know it there will be well-defined and easy to maneuver and follow trails for all to benefit from.

If you choose to add routes to the area, please do your part to continue the Homestead tradition and use good hardware when equipping your routes. Plan your bolt placements to use solid sections of rock and to allow for minimal rope drag. All routes should have lowering anchors at the end of the routes and dangerously loose rock should be removed from the routes. To date there has been no chipping or gluing at the crag. Please keep it that way.

Thanks to Louie Anderson for providing all the info!!

Routes

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Grade Route

Just when you come down the gully

This is the very first route encountered at the lower left end of the Finland Terrace Wall. Begin just left of a large boulder, at a left-leaning crack. Quite pumpy and involved for its length.

FA: SA, Dec 2011

FA: Fazio-Rhicard

This route begins just right of an obvious right-facing crack system. Fun moves lead to a decision at the third bolt; go straight up avoiding the crack out left (5.10), or move left and ascend the crack for 5 feet until it is easy to step back out right to the bolt line (5.9-). Either way leads to more steep face, followed by 15 feet of lower-angled easy moves. The route is named for the challenging final section, which should leave all comers satisfied.

FA: SA & Cliff, Dec 2011

Hard start ,vertical , small hand finish

FA: Harrison

This steep face climb. Positive edges characterize the line, which ends before the sharp, blocky climbing on the upper face.

FA: SA & AS, Feb 2011

FA: Fazio-Rhicard

This route can be located by finding the bolt line that spans the face up to the left side of a prominent roof located about 50 feet up the climb. Enjoyable moves lead to a rest below the first “ring (grip)”, a tiny, delicate flowstone stalactite. Once the roof is engaged above, it is recommended to move quickly through the upper sequences. The final bolt is best clipped from the second, much larger “ring”, which hopefully provides the nerve to commit!

FA: SA, JH & Morgan, Dec 2011

The start of this climb is found directly between two Saguaro cacti. Double check that you are on the correct route by finding the bolt line that heads directly to the right end of the roof/overlap above. The crux comes right after the first bolt, and eases off a bit upon reaching the prominent dagger of stone at the right end of the overlap. Another hard move attains the rest ledge, with more interesting and steep movement all the way to the top.

FA: SA, Cliff & BK, Dec 2011

Trends right to two small roofs

FA: Iannuzzi

two starts, joins the right version at bolt 4

Two starts, joins the left version at bolt 4

FA: Hundal & Fazio-Rhicard

Ragged pocket

FA: Fazio-Rhicard, Serrat-Capdevilla & Cornick

Short route on black rock

FA: Hastie

Fun but continues too far.

FA: Harrison

FA: Howard

FA: Harrison

Belay bolt at base. Starts with a tufa hold into 2 nice holes.

FA: Rosholt

Tree trunk-like flow stone.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard, Scott & Schultz

A prominent right-facing dihedral marks the bulk of this line. Easy moves up into the corner lead to some nice stemming, followed by the crux overhang on good holds. A short section of slab finishes thing off.

FA: Scott Ayers, Skine B & Kirsten, Jan 2012

Just 8 feet right of the obvious corner of the previous route, is this face climb. The opening section contains the hardest moves, which all tend to involve angular holds and/or liebacking. The remainder eases off, but stays fun all the way to the top.

FA: Scott Ayers, Skine B & Kirsten, Jan 2012

Another seven feet right of the previous route, this climb ascend steep rock to a small ledge, then enters an attractive corner, which ends in anchors.

FA: Scott Ayers & Avi Steinburg, Jan 2012

nice tricky moves at the start and roof passing with long move

FA: Rosholt

FA: Rosholt

Locate this route just right of Radical Self-Expression, with a large hole at its start. Quality moves lead to a stance below the crux roof section. Powerful climbing through the ceiling leads to easier moves that reach the anchors.

FA: SA, LA & BB, Feb 2011

This route is just right of Fight or Flight, and ascends steep face to the right end of the roof system. Continuous climbing culminates in the small roof, where easier moves gain the anchors.

FA: SA & GK, Mar 2011

This line starts just left of the Palo Verde tree, at a overhanging section of face, with a few small roofs. Strenuous moves pass the steep portion, and sharp rock leads to the anchors.

FA: Scott, Fazio-Rhicard & Cornick

This route begins just left of the next via ferrata, at some rock bearing numerous pockets . Move up to the first bolt, then traverse left and up to the second. Head up past some fractured blocks to a ledge, then continue up a crack to the top. Difficult to clean the gear while lowering, as the descent line drops 15 feet left of the start.

FA: Rangel

Start up the pocketed orange face, and continue up to where the holds head left for the right-facing corner. Up the corner to a hand traverse out right on big holds, to reach a weakness. The remainder of the route climbs “boulder-problem” like cruxes up the stair-stepped arête to the top. 12 bolts, 90 feet to anchors. (SA, AS, January 2013)

FA: SA & AS, Jan 2013

The next section of wall encountered right of Elsa is characterized by patches of orange rock, which yield interesting holds, and beautiful moves. Start 6 feet right of the route, Staircase Wit, at a right-angling bolt line. At the third bolt the moves steepen, and the crux lies above. Once to the halfway ledge, the line becomes slabby, but much thinner, as well as a bit more runnout. Engaging from the bottom to the top!

FA: MR

It is recommended to belay on a small ledge below the via ferrata cord, as well as secure the belayer to the line. A steep section leads to easier climbing, followed by the crux on beautiful orange rock.

FA: SA, JH & JB, Jan 2012

Start at lower ledge, there is also a belay bolt

FA: Rangel

This route begins about 10 feet right of Estevan’s Roof, at the right side of a prominent dark hole in the rock. Boulder up to the hole, and clip the first bolt. Clean steep moves characterize this line.

FA: SA & TB, Mar 2011

A few feet right of the previous line is this fun route. Continuous moves finally relent at the anchors. 5 bolts, 45 feet to anchors.

FA: SA & TB, Mar 2011

Just right of the end of the guideline, the base ledge widens up enough to walk on. This route starts left of a saguaro cactus, and ascends a right-facing corner for its second half. A bit hard to read, but much easier than its neighbors. The day this climb went up, the canyon was crowded, with a number of climbers punctuating the silence with exuberant shouts.

FA: SA & MB, Dec 2011

This is the first route right of the hanging, right-facing corner of I Scream Sunday. It can be belayed from the left end of the lower ledge with the Palo Verde tree. Look for a small roof out right of the second bolt, with a short, shallow left-facing corner above. Climb up and past the left side of the roof, to a small horizontal break. Move up past some strenuous side-pulls, to a stance at the anchors.

FA: SA, Jan 2012

This challenging route may be short, but it provides a range of difficult moves up a steep wall. Start under the most overhanging section of face, with white flowstone under a small roof. Pulling out the roof to the hanging flakes provides the pump, while the thinner moves above demand attention all the way to the finishing ledge.

FA: SA & AS, Jan 2012

Another decent warm-up route, with some nice moves out a bulge. There is a hole above the first bolt that indicates the line. Once the bottom difficulties are worked out, the last 15 feet ease up considerably.

FA: SA, Jan 2012

This interesting route is found above a prominent Palo Verde tree growing on the terrace. Just up the terrace are two Saguaros growing quite close to the wall. Fun, technical climbing through the crux section reaches a rest, but hard moves await above before the anchors.

FA: Scott Ayers & Tanya Bok, Mar 2011

Featured climbing leads to black tufa to tricky face.

FA: Ayers

Brown streak; no bolts.

Start just right of a large saguaro cactus, at a right-facing corner. Steep moves up this feature lead to easier orange rock, then anchors.

FA: Scott Ayers, 2011

Approximately 100 feet uphill from the Estevan’s Roof area is a prominent roof system with a clean right-facing corner defining its left end. Look for a line of bolts leading to this obvious dihedral/roof system. Very hard moves past the first two bolts reach a jug at bolt 3. Strenuous moves lead up into the corner, culminating in the final classic roof.

FA: SA & TB, Mar 2011

(aka Powered by Spirits) Appears to be fully equipped

FA: Rosholt

FFA: Rosholt

FA: Ianuzzi

This is the easiest route in this section of the cliff, but it still demands a strong effort to avoid spiraling into the void. The route begins just right of a roof band about 10 feet up. Look for a line of bolts that skirts the right end of that roof system. Powerful moves navigate the steep lower wall, and reach a rest. The last stretch can be climbed in two ways: either climb directly up past the bolts (harder), or move out right to a hanging, right-facing corner (easier), and clip the final bolts by reaching back left. This climb is particularly sharp, and therefore painful. The lower crux can be overcome with the use of a hand-jam in the small corner above the roof, but it is a skin-shredding choice. The upper face has quite a bit of dagger rock, so the finish is a bit unpleasant as well.

FA: JR

(aka Nasty Reputation) Tufas lead to heuco.Starts above jug line.

8 bolts to rings with bolted anchor below start.

FA: Harrison

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