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Marley Wall

  • Grade context: US

Description

Mostly overhanging routes on excellent rock facing south.

Access issues inherited from Homestead

The area between gate 2 and 3 is private land, please behave respectfully!

https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/homestead

Approach

Same as Tufa City, continue along the wall to reach Marley Wall.

Ethic inherited from Homestead

When visiting and climbing at the Homestead, please help to maintain the climber trails used to access the climbing and along the base of the walls. Do a little bit of work each time you come and before you know it there will be well-defined and easy to maneuver and follow trails for all to benefit from.

If you choose to add routes to the area, please do your part to continue the Homestead tradition and use good hardware when equipping your routes. Plan your bolt placements to use solid sections of rock and to allow for minimal rope drag. All routes should have lowering anchors at the end of the routes and dangerously loose rock should be removed from the routes. To date there has been no chipping or gluing at the crag. Please keep it that way.

Thanks to Louie Anderson for providing all the info!!

Routes

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Grade Route

This route is the farthest-left of the routes on the Marley Wall. If uncoiling a rope for 27 feet of lead climbing is your thing, than tie-in for this 4 bolt wonder.

FA: Merin & Fazio-Rhicard

This route is currently the second line from the left on the Marley Wall. Approach the wall via the trail, and walk all the way to nearly the left end before the ledge drops of down to the Tufa City Wall. Begin on some fun tufas, and reach out the roof to one hanging stalactite (used to be two, until the left one was sadly ripped from the wall on the third ascent). The crux then follows, with a quick break above, The remainder of the route follows a double-overhanging, left-facing corner, capped by a roof. Absolutely fun, and not a thin crimp on the line!

FA: SA & DS, 2010

Just to the left of Buffalo Soldier are two, short routes, both ending on a ledge 40 feet up. These two lines were established specifically to provide warm-up routes on the Marley Wall. The left line involves a fun series of moves up and past interesting flowstone features, although the finish is a bit of a letdown. Possibly not worth even one star, but cool enough to throw a rope on!

FA: SA & LA, 2011

Definitely the better of this pair of shorties, with good moves all the way to the anchors. Nice tufa features lead to a strenuous roof, followed by a classic “letter-box” slot that provides access to the final jugs. Avoid the skanky rock out left (above the roof) and climb directly up past the bolts (no difference in the grade, but much more aesthetic.)

FA: SA, SJ, LA & AZ, 2011

Tufa to steep face with rest mid-route.

FA: Anderson

Climbs huge elephant ear tufa.

White face to huge bulge. Finish on a 5.12 headwall .

Set by Louie Anderson

FA: Louie Anderson

FFA: Anderson

Big features through bulge to arête

FA: Anderson

(Hathaway) Stemming corner to blocky overhang to shallow corner.

Face climbing leads to a steep dihedral.

FA: Fitzgerald

(aka Scorpio)

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Activity

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