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Rough Rider Wall

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Description

Awesome technical and (very) long climbs on vertical and slightly overhanging rock. In the shade most of the day.

Access issues inherited from Homestead

The area between gate 2 and 3 is private land, please behave respectfully!

https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/homestead

Approach

Walk into the canyon until you find a well marked path going up right once you see the wall. The lower wall is on the right on the way up. There is a fixed rope on the right that leads to Karma cave.

Ethic inherited from Homestead

When visiting and climbing at the Homestead, please help to maintain the climber trails used to access the climbing and along the base of the walls. Do a little bit of work each time you come and before you know it there will be well-defined and easy to maneuver and follow trails for all to benefit from.

If you choose to add routes to the area, please do your part to continue the Homestead tradition and use good hardware when equipping your routes. Plan your bolt placements to use solid sections of rock and to allow for minimal rope drag. All routes should have lowering anchors at the end of the routes and dangerously loose rock should be removed from the routes. To date there has been no chipping or gluing at the crag. Please keep it that way.

Thanks to Louie Anderson for providing all the info!!

Routes

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Grade Route

This sector currently contains only six routes, but there are certainly other possibilities. Be wary of bee activity, which may be worse, or better, as the years pass.

Currently the left-most (highest) route located on the “Rough Rider Terrace”, this steep face line offers a steep crux in the initial third of the climb. Technical moves lead to a more reasonable finish.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard & Ruljancich

Just 12 feet downhill from Sleezy Rider, and right of the large overhanging section of the wall, is a prominent weakness bearing a line of right-trending bolts. A pumpy start finally gains a rest, before two more sections of technical climbing that reach the top. A fine warm-up climb. Beware when pulling the rope from the anchors for a ledge with some loose blocks located off the line about 25 down and left of the anchors!

FA: Cornick, Bigio & Fazio-Rhicard

This route begins from the lower right-hand side of the prominent overhanging section of rock located in the center of the Rough Rider Terrace. Look for a short, right-facing corner capped by a roof which begins 12 feet off the terrace. Climb up steep face to the corner, and gain a stance at bolt #4. From here, move out left onto the exposed arête, and up to the face above. A series of strenuous moves on good holds leads to the top.

FA: SA & JH, Apr 2013

This route tackles the juggy overhang just right of Aspiring Killer. A small roof with a bolt just below it marks the start. Move up to the overhang, and gun it out over the lip above.

FA: SA & DC, Nov 2013

This is the rightmost of the trio of routes in the center of the Rough Rider Terrace. Just right of route Roof Fuss is a line of bolts that skims the right end of the cowl-like overhang 30 feet up the wall. Climb technical face up to the base of the steep section, then enjoy positive holds all the way to the anchors.

FA: SA, TB & JH, Dec 2013

This route is located just right of a very overhanging section, in an obvious corner weakness with two parallel seams. Technical climbing using both seams leads to a rest jug; from here the route moves left and onto the overhanging bucketed wall left of the obvious corner.

FA: SA & DC, May 2012

This is the farthest right route on the Rough Rider Terrace, and starts only 15 feet left of AC Power (but up on the ledge.) The initial section is both pumpy and technical, but at half-height the difficulty eases off a bit for a beautiful finishing section past small roofs and corners.

FA: SA & JH, Apr 2012

The main Rough Rider Wall is unquestionably one of the two best walls at the Homestead. With long routes on beautiful orange rock, often capped by roofs near the top, this sector claims some of the best 5.11 and 5.12 routes in the canyon. Clean, crisp lines of positive holds, interspersed by buckets, make this wall especially enjoyable. The aspect of the wall is such that it always gets morning shade, but depending upon the month, the sun will hit the wall between early to late afternoon. Most people don’t climb here between December and February, not only due to the cold temps, but also because that is prime season for the other great wall of the Homestead, Tufa City. Since Tufa City contains scores of amazing 5.11 and 5.12 routes (with a few in the 5.13 range), that is the place to be during mid-winter. Once the Rough Rider season is underway, many people will start there in the morning when its cool and shady, then walk across the canyon to Slate nation, The Terrace, or later in the day, Tufa City, to catch the shade.

The far left end of the Rough Rider Wall ends with a prominent left-facing flake in orange rock. Ascend this feature past four bolts to a ledge. Fun moves past the next 5 bolts (crux) lead to the base of a corner capped by a roof. Although the hardest climbing is over, this open book requires balance and finesse to reach the ceiling. The anchors are reached just above the roof on a small ledge. Make sure and avoid the temptation to leave the corner for easier ground out left, as that will strand the leader from reaching the last 3 bolts (the last bolt is found just above and right of the roof.)

FFA: SA & JH, Mar 2012

This route starts off a boulder below a blunt buttress. This blunt buttress is located just right of an inset corner covered in a surface of hardened, mud-like features. Hard moves up the buttress lead to the left end of a prominent roof band. Very strenuous moves out and through the roof and overhanging wall above finally achieve a rest stance. The final 50 feet of overlapping corners and roofs make for incredibly exposed, beautiful, and difficult climbing. Sustained all the way to the anchors!

FA: SA, EH & CK, May 2011

Locate the prominent right-leaning crack, which is found 15 feet right of the boulder start of One with Everything. Start up the crack, but head left at the third bolt into the shallow weakness. Steep, interesting climbing continues all the way to the anchors.

FA: SA, May 2011

Just right of the previous route is a very high first bolt (stick clip recommended). Thin moves lead up to easier ground, then some continuously steep climbing all the way to the strenuous crux… right before the anchor!

FA: SA, May 2011

This route starts on the same holds as the route to its left, but cuts out right about 10 feet up. A moderate middle section leads to the thin and strenuous top. The upper crux section looks to be steep and technical, and ends at an anchor with oddly long chains.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard, Brown & Schultz, Jun 2012

Hard to read sequences on good rock.

FA: Fred

This route shares the first three bolts of Send Train Surfer, than cuts out left around the arête to the steep face above. From the ledge, the climbing is steep and technical, and surmounts a roof which is formed by a prominent right-leaning corner. This feature is a bit unsettling, as it is the underside of a huge, fractured section of wall, complete with a crack running all the way across its top. Whatever is holding this feature to the face (keeping in mind that the entire feature is plastered to an overhanging wall) is unknown, but one should hope that is stays put for the duration of your ascent. Once above the roof (on the aforementioned, detached mega-plate) trend up and right, to a rest before the final clean section of sustained face.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard, Hadap & Ruljancich, May 2012

Shares start with Wild Woozy.

FFA: Fazio-Rhicard & Schultz, 2012

Located approximately 25 feet right of The Riddler, look for the start in a shallow, left-facing seam. Hard moves past 3 bolts gain the ledge above. Regroup here because the remainder of the line packs a wallop! The crux is found in the overhang 5 bolts above the ledge, but many more difficult moves await on the way to the anchor. Bolted by Luke Anaya, but redpointed by Matt Ciancio.

FA: MC, LAn & SA, 2010

High quality rock, excellent position, and no small holds makes this a must-do line, whether one stops at the first anchor, or guns it out all the way to the top!Start on Riders on the Swarm, but step left after the 4th bolt to the ledge. From here steep fingercracks and face lead to a no-hands rest ledge with the first anchor.

FA: SA, Apr 2011

If the anchor is passed, the route becomes much steeper, and the final crux sequence is powerful and sublime! 5.11+, 18 bolts, 115 feet. (SA, DW, May 2011)

FA: SA & DW, May 2011

This climb is located by finding the parallel, right-leaning cracks just left of Crescendo. This route starts in the left weakness, continues up and right in a shallow stemming corner, then steps back left to a halfway anchor located at a small, no-hands rest. Named to commemorate a very close call with a bee’s nest while inspecting another line earlier in the day (no bee problems on this route.) Work up the seams to a rest on the ledge above. Step out right to the clean corner, and decipher the path to reach the anchors. A worthy warm-up for the surrounding testpieces.

FA: SA, AZ & C, 2010

This is the complete route to the top of the crag. Pass the midway anchor and buzz up the overhanging corner and face above. Multiple hard sections await, and reaching the anchor is definitely a sting-in-the-tail! 16 bolts, 115 feet to anchors.

FA: SA & MC, 2010

This climb begins in a section of dark rock, in the obvious right-facing corner which ends 20 feet up the face. Climb up and out right of the corner, and cross Crescendo out right to reach a blunt buttress. Move up to an overhang, then to the anchor.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard, Scott & Brown

Gradual increase in difficulty.

FA: Rosholt

Cryptic start to bulge to desperate finish

FA: Rosholt

Extension to Semi-Bluff.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard & Scott

The namesake for the wall, and an absolute area classic! Sustained, cerebral moves ascend a beautiful corner/seam system, and don’t let up until you clip the anchor. 10 bolts, 95 feet to anchors.

FA: JR

It is recommended that this route be started by climbing the first 3 bolts of Cold Fusion. Inexplicably, there is an uninteresting, rope-drag inducing two bolt start to the left of Cold Fusion’s start. There is also (!) a direct start straight below the upper line, but this 4 bolt face checks in at solid 5.11. Once started on this line, a section of fractured, suspect rock is encountered about 40 feet up. Delicately move past this easy section to the upper headwall. Steep, enjoyable moves lead to an oddly-placed anchor (somewhat difficult to get into a comfortable position to clip.)

FA: Serrat-Capdevilla & Fazio-Rhicard, 2011

FA: Rosholt

Located approximately 15 feet right of Cold Fusion is this attractive set of vertical seams that reaches a small overhang above. Challenging climbing lets up after the 8th bolt, but the final steep, right-facing corner adds a fine finish to this route. 12 bolts, 100 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, CK & TB, 2010

This route begins in the striking crack located 25 feet right of Cold Fusion. Work up the crack, then step out right (avoids the dirty crack to the left) to steep face that attains the ledge above. A fine section of overhanging edges and pockets leads to a tricky finish.

FA: SA, JH & M, 2010

Direct Start

FA: Serrat-Capdevilla & Fazio-Rhicard

Between the striking crack to the left, and the obvious dihedral start of J-Bone Memorial Highway is a short seam leading to a roof bearing bolts. Fire up and out this roof to easier climbing which reaches the ledge above. Interesting and challenging moves work up the slightly overhanging face, and eventually lead to a fun finish out the roof at the top. 12 bolts, 90 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, TB & MH, 2010

This line ascends the prominent, clean corner that marks the right end of the Rough Rider Wall. Depending upon where you exit the corner, the crux is either on the face out left of the corner (5.11; a bit contrived), or is on the headwall above the halfway ledge. Either way you do this climb, the quality will be highly memorable!

FA: JB

This wall is located just above the trail which leads up to the Rough Rider Wall, about a third of the way up the hill. Two fun warm-up climbs are located here. Scramble up to a ledge below the main, upper left wall; a belay bolt is found here.

This is the left route, and the better of the two. A steep start leads to large hold climbing nearly all the way to the anchors. 9 bolts, 55 feet to anchors.

FA: SA & GK, Nov 2012

The right route has a longer sustained section of technical moves, culminating in a reachy finish.

FA: SA & AS, Nov 2012

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