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North Buttress

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Description

This sector of the wall is the farthest left and highest on the eastside of the canyon. The cliff faces almost due north, so the routes are in the shade virtually for the entire climbing season. Due to this aspect, the best times to climb here are late October and November, or March through mid-May. The only exceptions to that are the farthest rightmost routes, Shell-shocked, B-52, and Suicide Jack, which get sun in the mid to late afternoon. There are both very steep routes here, as well as some very long slightly overhanging lines. Virtually every climb is worth doing at least once, with the majority seeing dozens of ascents every year.

Access issues inherited from Homestead

The area between gate 2 and 3 is private land, please behave respectfully!

https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/homestead

Approach

Follow the access to Rough Rider Wall, pass Cowtown Buttress and continue to reach North Buttress.

Ethic inherited from Homestead

When visiting and climbing at the Homestead, please help to maintain the climber trails used to access the climbing and along the base of the walls. Do a little bit of work each time you come and before you know it there will be well-defined and easy to maneuver and follow trails for all to benefit from.

If you choose to add routes to the area, please do your part to continue the Homestead tradition and use good hardware when equipping your routes. Plan your bolt placements to use solid sections of rock and to allow for minimal rope drag. All routes should have lowering anchors at the end of the routes and dangerously loose rock should be removed from the routes. To date there has been no chipping or gluing at the crag. Please keep it that way.

Thanks to Louie Anderson for providing all the info!!

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the farthest leftmost route on the wall, and is mainly just a fast warmup, as it is by far the easiest climb on the entire North Buttress. A rook near the start leads to easier climbing, then the wall steepens, with mostly big holds on sharp rock to the anchors.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

This route starts in a prominent right-facing corner, at the far left end of the wall. Steep, interesting moves overcome the first section up to the ledge, than a nice stretch of face culminates in a roof just before the anchors. 9 bolts, 70 feet to anchors. (DC, SA, June 2012)

FA: DC & SA, 2012

Start off the left end of the giant boulder. Three bolts protect steep, hard moves, then easier climbing reaches the ledge. Another section of overhanging rock provides the second crux, followed by sharp but more moderate climbing to the top.

FA: Fazio-Rhicard & Bigio, 2012

At the far left end of the North Buttress is a giant boulder which is located close to the cliff face. This route begins from the top of the boulder; look for the first bolt out right when standing on the flat top. Interesting, technical face climbing leads to a thin crack, and up to a ledge. Head out the overhang to a stance above. The sharp rock ends quickly with beautiful steep face climbing up to a small final roof, then the anchors.

FA: SA, AZ & BK, 2011

Between the two lines mentioned is this improbable line. Technical and strenuous moves up and over the initial roof leads to a much bigger roof. Rest up on the ledge, as the next section requires a series of precise gymnastics to overcome the roof. Easier climbing above leads to anchors.

FA: SA, Mar 2013

About 15 feet left of Short Stop is a right facing corner that leads to a roof and some seam climbing before hitting the prominent ledge system. Above the ledge a section of very overhanging stone finally relents back to near vertical before the top. A full three years in the making, this line finally succumbed before the summer heat of 2012.

FA: DW, AZ, SA & CM, 2012

Start just left of the tiered roofs of Short Stop, at a shallow inset feature. A cramped rest under the roof allows contemplation of the sequence out left and over the ceiling. Easier climbing leads up to a ledge. Step out left from the higher ledge, and ascend the beautiful grey face for a sustained section of technical movement. The difficulties ease only two bolts from the anchors.

FA: SA & GA, Dec 2012

This is the 20-foot route with closely spaced bolts located just left of a deep inset crack. Very steep moves lead to an anchor at the lip of the final roof. Oddly out of character when compared to the other outstanding Gambler offerings at the Homestead.

FA: JR

Look for a line of bolts approximately 10 feet right of the deep inset crack. Other than a few weeds growing out of the face, this line looks quite good. Be highly suspect of the ancient nylon draws hanging from the roof! (Has anyone ever repeated this climb?)

FA: JR

This is the route that climbs up to and past the obvious cave in the dark rock just right of Gila Monster. One of the best routes at the Homestead, this line should not be missed! Although quite safe, and not requiring any Geico Insurance, this is definitely a route that any caveman could do. Stick clip the first bolt, then head up on technical face to a good rest below the overhanging section. Power out pockets to the cave, where a comfortable rest can be arranged. Finishing the roof above is both strenuous and classic, and the final finger crack and overhangs make for an exciting ending. 14 bolts, 95 feet to anchors.

FA: SA, G, AZ, MH & TB, 2011

Locate this line 20 feet right of So Easy. It starts in a right-facing corner which leads up into the overhang above. Fine climbing up and out the overhang leads to a finish which favors a climber with good crack technique. A fun voyage!

FA: SA, TB & MH, 2011

This route begins at the left end of the large, low roof, in the right-facing corner. Difficult moves passing the roof lead to a ledge. A steep wall follows, with the crux being on small, painful holds to reestablish on the slab above. Staying left on the slab keeps you on the correct climb. Much easier climbing gains the final corners and roofs, then the anchors.

FA: JS & EFR, 2012

A very nice climb with an intimidating, airy finish. The route starts at the right end of the big, low roof, with a tight corner just above. There is a prominent right-facing weakness just right of this start, which is the beginning of Appetite for Destruction. The opening moves of this route can be done in two different ways. By using the cheatstone, and climbing straight up the thin fingercrack past the first bolt, the moves are very strenuous and likely the hardest on the route (5.11-). But an obvious shallow corner three feet right of the first bolt provides the far easier and less contrived start at 5.10-, and gains the second bolt with equal safety. A ledge is quickly gained, followed by a short section of overhanging crack (5.10.) The bolted slab should be clipped with long runners to reduce rope drag, but another crux awaits (5.11-) to gain the tight, hanging dihedral above. The final moves up the left arête to the anchors are exposed and beautiful.

FA: EFR & JS, 2012

Although one of the last routes to be completed on the North Buttress, this unlikely line contains one of the craziest and most unique finishes of any route at the Homestead. Were the route to be more pure and straight, it would be a 3-star climb. The name comes from the sheer amount of loose rock cleaned from the middle section and the ledge that leads to it. Many of the blocks that were cleaned were from an area that isn’t even on the route, but close enough to the right to warrant the extra effort to assure safe passage. Start in the weakness that begins as a crack, than quickly becomes a seam that heads towards a sizable roof approximately 40 feet above the ground. Once the first roof is negotiated, the bolt line heads distinctly out left, and on to a buttress of better stone. Absolutely do not continue up the weakness above the roof any further, or you will quickly discover a plethora of fractured rock looming overhead. The buttress out left is climbed using a prominent crack system on its left side, which provides fun, moderate moves to reach the features that make this climb so worthwhile. The final section up and out the seven roofs will make you think you’re in “Paradise City”, or more realistically, climbing in the Gunks.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

This excellent line is located by finding the leftmost bolted line of the four routes that occupy the right end of the North Buttress. It ascends the tall blunt buttress to some attractive left-facing, hanging corners near the top. Start in a clean, shallow right-facing corner (crux #1), and continue up to a rest below the overhanging wall. Up this (crux #2) to some interesting face which leads to the striking corners and roofs above (crux #3.) Above the roofs is the finale; the ‘sting-in-the-tail’ section of classic thin fingertip crack (crux #4). Be sure to reach past the anchor to the finishing jugs before declaring victory, as “it ain’t over, till its over” on this one! Make sure and have a 70-meter rope, or else getting back to the ground will be a problem.

FA: SA, TB & AZ, 2010

One of the longest pitches at the Homestead starts 8 feet right of Great Northern, with a blade of rock to step off from to the first bolt. This route gets sun earlier than the routes found to the left at the North Buttress, so plan accordingly. Steep rock leads to a small recess, then up clean stone to a small rest ledge. The crux comes directly above, followed by exposed, steep climbing to the anchors. Make sure and check out the fossilized shells in the upper face. 70-meter rope needed.

FA: SA, AZ & MH, 2011

This and the next route share the same start, which ascend the pedestal to reach the fist bolt. This is the first route encountered when approaching on the trail from the routes over on the Cowtown Buttress. Immediately to the left of the vegetated wall is this long face climb. Start from the crack on the left side of a pedestal. A short section of slab leads to the steeper crux area above. Near the top the line eases off on an exposed, blunt buttress.

FA: SA & JH, 2012

This final, right-most route on the North Buttress uses the same start as B-52, but heads right after the second bolt. A slightly longer draw on the third bolt helps with the rope-drag, but is not mandatory. The middle section contains the crux, but eases off soon afterward to a good rest. The climber can head back out left to the next obvious horizontal, but those moves are .10- compared to the easier ground of the crack system out right. The second half of the climb provides a beautiful section of steep featured stone, with the corner up to and passing the roof being the highlight. A fine warm-up route for the harder climbs nearby.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

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