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Movie Quote Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1

Description

The “Movie Quote Wall” is located directly above Bonetown, and is the last major wall to receive development at the Homestead. The initial 20 feet of stone at the base is fractured on the surface, and required substantial cleaning to reach stable rock underneath, which is likely the reason why it took so long for these routes to be established. Fortunately, the middle and upper sections of the wall provide stellar holds and sequences, giving the routes exciting and memorable climbing at a moderate (for the Homestead, at least) grade of difficulty. (Note: The length of the bolts for the first three or four bolts on all of these routes are 7” long. There is no need to be concerned about the safety of this lower section, as all of the bolts were drill deep into the bedrock.

Access issues inherited from Homestead

The area between gate 2 and 3 is private land, please behave respectfully!

https://www.accessfund.org/take-action/campaigns/homestead

Approach

After Welcome Wall, look for a trail on the right side of the canyon marked by cairns. A couple of switchbacks leads above Bone Town to Movie Quote Wall.

Ethic inherited from Homestead

When visiting and climbing at the Homestead, please help to maintain the climber trails used to access the climbing and along the base of the walls. Do a little bit of work each time you come and before you know it there will be well-defined and easy to maneuver and follow trails for all to benefit from.

If you choose to add routes to the area, please do your part to continue the Homestead tradition and use good hardware when equipping your routes. Plan your bolt placements to use solid sections of rock and to allow for minimal rope drag. All routes should have lowering anchors at the end of the routes and dangerously loose rock should be removed from the routes. To date there has been no chipping or gluing at the crag. Please keep it that way.

Thanks to Louie Anderson for providing all the info!!

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Routes

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Grade Route

This is the farthest left route on the wall, and it is located approximately 50 feet left of (route #2). Look for a short, right-angling crack at the base, and bolts that head straight up above its left side. Easy climbing leads to a steep section, where the crux in encountered. Challenging but easier moves pass the left side of a huge hole, and up to the anchors.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

This route begins below the right side of an obvious overhang, just left of the major right-facing corner system. Although there is a bit of blocky, fractured stone, this is still a worthy climb. Head up and out left onto the steep headwall, and up to the anchors.

FA: DC & SA, 2012

One of the best routes on the wall; an area classic! Climb up face, past a tiny roof, to a left angling set of moves that reaches the bottom of the major right-facing corner system. Continuously challenging climbing ascends this corner, but often the moves are just out to the right. At the top, move back left, and up to the anchors.

FA: DC & SA, 2012

Located about 12 feet right of the previous line, this climb moves up some easy rock to some very difficult moves, culminating in the crux near the top. Look for the anchors out right.

FA: DC & SA, 2012

This climb begins above the middle bolt on the via ferrata (roped handrail) and ascends moderate stone up to a rest. Very thin face moves pass three bolts which allow access to a right-facing flake. Move back left, and up into a short corner, then on to the top.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

This fine climb begins hallway between the right two bolts on the via ferata. Easy moves lead up to a small ledge. The remainder of the route is very engaging all the way to the anchors. A seam bearing some nice pockets leads to a small roof. The crux involves clearing this roof, but save some energy for the steep section above.

FFA: SA & DC, 2012

The start is directly above the rightmost bolt on the via ferata, off a small ledge. Head up to steepening rock, and fun moves to reach a small ledge. Interesting climbing on great stone reaches the anchors.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

Begins off the left side of the dirt ledge. After the initial easy section, the climb becomes sustained up to a small ledge. Move left to go around the left side of a roof, and head up the corner above. The most fun finish goes straight up steep moves on big holds to the anchor. Look for brown bolts.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

This is the route immediately left of the big holes in the middle of the wall (the Pone Tony). Start up easy stone to a very technical and difficult set of thin moves, which relent before the rest ledge. A small but strenuous roof in encountered, then beautiful rock to the anchors.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

A fun route passing 8 bolts and a cool mini-cave.

FFA: Meier, 2008

The first route right of the big holes. Laugh your way up to the steep technical crux, which is sustained and tricky, finally reaching a small hole. Moderate moves reach the anchors.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

One of the finest routes on the wall, with multiple hard sections, and a variety of climbing styles. Once the crux section is attained, the moves are sustained on superior rock. The final slab passing the pockets will require Jedi mind tricks! Look for brown bolts.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

Start on either route to the left or right for two bolts, then engage this line, boldly going up to the overhang near the top. Once above this, an anchor is located in a small alcove.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

Start on a small buttress between two short vertical cracks. Interesting climbing gains the rest ledge. Sustained moves reach the anchors.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

This route starts in the low point of the trail; look for a belay bolt at knee height. Fun climbing all the way to the rest ledge. A beautiful left-facing corner supplies the action.

FA: SA & DC, 2012

Begin just uphill, looking for the line of brown bolts. Enjoyable moderate climbing leads to a strenuous overhang, then up to the anchors. 9 bolts, 90 feet.

FA: SA & TB, 2012

The last two routes on the right start from a high ledge; this one ascends from its left side. The crux occurs in the mid-section, and the top overhang is steep but mild.

FA: SA & TB, 2012

This route takes on the obvious inset dihedral. The ubiquitous easy bottom section gives way to a long section of strenuous climbing. Remember to use this route’s title when a crusty traddy tells you the route should have been led on gear!

FA: SA & TB, 2012

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