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The Unnamed Wall

  • Grade context: US
2

Description

The Unnamed Wall has a variety of climbs, ranging from fat WI 3 to very difficult mixed (M7-9). Unlike the Genesis/Mummy areas, the Unnamed Wall is favorably located on the sunny aspect of the canyon. However, this does cause less consistency in the formation of several routes. Also note that lead climbing is required here as there is no easy way to walk around to set up top-ropes.

Approach

The Unnamed Wall approach (with a beaten path) is shorter than one might expect. From the Hyalite Creek/Peak aka Grotto Falls Trailhead follow the main trail for a short distance to the first major clearing (the one with the trail sign at its far side). Follow the first trail off to the right (west) down to the creek. Cross the creek and traverse right around a steep hill. Then, angle left up a wide drainage, and go right past the tree choked gully. Continue up to the talus slope and hike up its right side to arrive at the cliff band just left of the impressive climb of Bingo World. Approach times will vary from somewhere around 25-45 minutes depending on the trail conditions and one's hiking speed.

Routes

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Grade Route

This climb differs from others on the Unnamed Wall in that it is tucked away in a small, north facing cleft. It receives much less sun and is usually more brittle than nearby climbs such as The Fat One. However, this a great climb and a good transition for a WI 3 leader wanting to get a taste of leading steeper ice. The short initial pillar is WI 4 and the crux. The climbing becomes easier upon entering the narrow gully, which has a couple steeper steps and ends in a small bowl. A new chain anchor has been installed in the rock to the left at the 35 meter mark. There is an optional second pitch (often snow covered) that begins at the back of the bowl. There is said to be tree anchors for the top of this pitch.

Although the WI3 rating is said to be somewhat understated early season, this sunny climb usually provides a mellow WI 3 line by January. By this time, the easiest place to begin is on the right hand side of the initial steep step. After overcoming this step, continue up low-angled ice and possibly snow, pass a small tree on your left, and finish at an excellent belay tree at the top. Rap down the route with two ropes or one rope with a v-thread.

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