Ferne Clyffe State Park Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Mike Clev Victor Miller

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Ferne Clyffe State Park 71 in Crag
- 1.1. The Hole 1 in Boulder
- 1.2. 45 Degree Wall 1 in Boulder
- 1.3. Assassin Wall 4 in Boulder
- 1.4. Goreville Theater 13 in Area
- 1.5. The Devil's Staircase 6 in Area
- 1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall 14 in Area
- 1.7. Main Wall / Rebman Wall 32 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Ferne Clyffe State Park 71 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.539246, -88.980163

1.1. The Hole 1 route in Boulder

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.533764, -88.983232

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Goreville Youth	V4	Boulder

1.2. 45 Degree Wall 1 route in Boulder

Summary:: All Bouldering

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Shorty	V5	Boulder

1.3. Assassin Wall 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:: All Bouldering

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Desperado	V8	Boulder
2	Smitty's House	V6	Boulder
3	Bass Assassin	V9	Boulder
4	Touch Of Nature	V9	Boulder

1.4. Goreville Theater 13 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.542068, -88.976994

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Pig Farm	5.11	Sport 50ft, 6
2	Blood Sweat and Smears	5.12a	Sport 8
3	Fox Hunt	5.11c/d	Sport 45ft, 6
4	Brushfire	5.12+	Sport 50ft, 6
5	Chicken Fridays	5.12	Sport 50ft, 7
6	Apex Predator	5.12c/d	Sport 60ft, 9
7	Puma	5.11b/c	Sport 6
8	Whiskers Right side of Arete	5.10c	Sport 10
9	★★ Burn Notice	5.10	Sport 50ft, 7
10	Members Only	5.11	Sport 50ft, 7
11	★★ Be My Alpha, Gal	5.8	Sport 50ft, 8
12	Storm Maker	5.12b	Sport 55ft, 7
13	★★★ Windwalker	5.11b	Sport 55ft, 8

1.5. The Devil's Staircase 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.542279, -88.979209

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Chimney Sweep	5.8	Sport 6
2	Belay Snake	5.10b	Sport 6
3	Blueberry Thief	5.10a/b	Sport 7
4	Diaspora	5.10a	Sport 7
5	★★ Schism	5.9	Sport 7
6	★★★ Tower of Babel	5.7	Sport 5

1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.541956, -88.980038

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Rain Dance Far left side of wall	5.9	Sport 50ft, 7
2	Fear of Failure	5.11a	Sport 55ft, 7
3	★★★ Pump of the Jam	5.10	Sport 60ft, 7
4	★★★ Purple Rain	5.10b	Sport 60ft, 7
5	★★★ Last Dance	5.10b	Sport 60ft, 7
6	★★★ Jane Fonda dont judge route by name Good route full of pockets and small cracks or edges	5.10a	Sport 60ft, 7
7	Elder John	5.10	Sport 60ft, 8
8	Ruby Red Stilettos	5.11a	Sport 60ft, 7
9	Blue Suede Shoes	5.10b	Sport 60ft, 7
10	BlackJack FA:	5.10	Sport 50ft, 7
11	Little Blue FA:	5.10d	Sport 50ft, 5
12	★★ Hydrangea FA:	5.10b	Sport 50ft, 6
13	★★★ For Mom FA:	5.9	Sport 50ft, 5
14	Between Two Trees Far right side of wall	5.10	Sport 50ft, 5

1.7. Main Wall 32 routes in Sector

Summary:: Top roping, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.543864, -88.979424

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Chilly, Gray Matter	5.11	Top rope
2	The Gift	5.10c	Top rope
3	Grace Under Fire	5.11c	Top rope
4	Mr. Mo Jo Rising	5.12a	Top rope
5	Cracked Heart	5.7	Top rope
6	Divine Intervention	5.10a	Top rope
7	Miles From Nowhere	5.7	Top rope
8	First Born	5.10a PG13	Trad
9	George Of The Jungle	5.11d	Top rope
10	Gangster	5.12d	Top rope
11	Under The Influence	5.8	Trad
12	No Holds Barred	5.12a	Top rope
13	Rusty Pin	5.10a	Top rope
14	Goreville Eating Society	5.10c	Top rope
15	Missouri Breaks	5.9	Trad
16	Hawk's Beak	5.7	Trad 60ft
17	Pondering Perpetual Motion	5.12a	Top rope
18	Jennifer Goes To Hollywood	5.11a	Top rope
19	Open Book / I Don't Care	5.4	Trad
20	★★ The Phoenix Closely bolted. Rebman Wall FA: Beth Lori	5.7	Sport 40ft, 7
21	★★ Doodle Dogs Straight Forward with crux towards top FA:	5.10a	Sport 40ft, 7
22	★★ Two Times Tough	5.7	Sport 50ft, 5
23	Lil' Ann overhung face. Mantle and underclings mussy hooks at anchor	5.10b	Sport 25ft, 3
24	Red Fern	5.10c	Sport 30ft, 4
25	Old Dan FA:	5.10b	Sport 30ft, 4
26	★★★ Tree Hound FA:	5.10a	Sport 30ft, 4
27	★ Ditch Pitch	5.7	Sport 40ft, 3
28	Quasimodo	5.6	Top rope 30ft
29	First Climb / Psychopath	5.2	Trad 40ft
30	★ Watson's Thro	5.6	Sport 25ft, 3
31	★★ Teetering Tick Fest / teetering trick fest FA:	5.7	Sport 30ft, 3
32	No Hans Solo	Class 4	Top rope

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
Class 4		No Hans Solo	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.2		First Climb	Trad 40ft	1.7. Main Wall
5.4		Open Book	Trad	1.7. Main Wall
5.6		Quasimodo	Top rope 30ft	1.7. Main Wall
	★	Watson's Thro	Sport 25ft, 3	1.7. Main Wall
5.7	★★★	Tower of Babel	Sport 5	1.5. The Devil's Staircase
		Cracked Heart	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
	★	Ditch Pitch	Sport 40ft, 3	1.7. Main Wall
		Hawk's Beak	Trad 60ft	1.7. Main Wall
		Miles From Nowhere	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
	★★	Teetering Tick Fest	Sport 30ft, 3	1.7. Main Wall
	★★	The Phoenix	Sport 40ft, 7	1.7. Main Wall
	★★	Two Times Tough	Sport 50ft, 5	1.7. Main Wall
5.8	★★	Be My Alpha, Gal	Sport 50ft, 8	1.4. Goreville Theater
	★★★	Chimney Sweep	Sport 6	1.5. The Devil's Staircase
		Under The Influence	Trad	1.7. Main Wall
5.9	★★	Schism	Sport 7	1.5. The Devil's Staircase
	★★★	For Mom	Sport 50ft, 5	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
	★	Rain Dance	Sport 50ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		Missouri Breaks	Trad	1.7. Main Wall
5.10a		Diaspora	Sport 7	1.5. The Devil's Staircase
	★★★	Jane Fonda	Sport 60ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		Divine Intervention	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
	★★	Doodle Dogs	Sport 40ft, 7	1.7. Main Wall
		Rusty Pin	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
	★★★	Tree Hound	Sport 30ft, 4	1.7. Main Wall
5.10a PG13		First Born	Trad	1.7. Main Wall
5.10a/b		Blueberry Thief	Sport 7	1.5. The Devil's Staircase
5.10b		Belay Snake	Sport 6	1.5. The Devil's Staircase
		Blue Suede Shoes	Sport 60ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
	★★	Hydrangea	Sport 50ft, 6	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
	★★★	Last Dance	Sport 60ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
	★★★	Purple Rain	Sport 60ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		Lil' Ann	Sport 25ft, 3	1.7. Main Wall
		Old Dan	Sport 30ft, 4	1.7. Main Wall
5.10c		Whiskers	Sport 10	1.4. Goreville Theater
		Goreville Eating Society	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
		Red Fern	Sport 30ft, 4	1.7. Main Wall
		The Gift	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.10	★★	Burn Notice	Sport 50ft, 7	1.4. Goreville Theater
		Between Two Trees	Sport 50ft, 5	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		BlackJack	Sport 50ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		Elder John	Sport 60ft, 8	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
	★★★	Pump of the Jam	Sport 60ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
5.10d		Little Blue	Sport 50ft, 5	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
5.11a		Fear of Failure	Sport 55ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		Ruby Red Stilettos	Sport 60ft, 7	1.6. Fern Clyffe Wall
		Jennifer Goes To Hollywood	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.11b	★★★	Windwalker	Sport 55ft, 8	1.4. Goreville Theater
5.11b/c		Puma	Sport 6	1.4. Goreville Theater
5.11c		Grace Under Fire	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.11		Members Only	Sport 50ft, 7	1.4. Goreville Theater
		Pig Farm	Sport 50ft, 6	1.4. Goreville Theater
		Chilly, Gray Matter	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.11c/d		Fox Hunt	Sport 45ft, 6	1.4. Goreville Theater
5.11d		George Of The Jungle	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
V4		Goreville Youth	Boulder	1.1. The Hole
5.12a		Blood Sweat and Smears	Sport 8	1.4. Goreville Theater
		Mr. Mo Jo Rising	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
		No Holds Barred	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
		Pondering Perpetual Motion	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.12b		Storm Maker	Sport 55ft, 7	1.4. Goreville Theater
V5		Shorty	Boulder	1.2. 45 Degree Wall
5.12		Chicken Fridays	Sport 50ft, 7	1.4. Goreville Theater
V6		Smitty's House	Boulder	1.3. Assassin Wall
5.12c/d		Apex Predator	Sport 60ft, 9	1.4. Goreville Theater
5.12d		Gangster	Top rope	1.7. Main Wall
5.12+		Brushfire	Sport 50ft, 6	1.4. Goreville Theater
V8		Desperado	Boulder	1.3. Assassin Wall
V9		Bass Assassin	Boulder	1.3. Assassin Wall
		Touch Of Nature	Boulder	1.3. Assassin Wall