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Locals Only Rock

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

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Description

The first rock you approach from the access trail. It has a good selection of trad moderate climbs.

Approach

Hike up and right from the parking/pull off. A couple minutes.

Descent notes

Routes are single-pitch, but most are longer than 60m -- so don't top-rope/lower-off with a single 60m rope. 70m ok, or there is a rap-station to go off the left-back that is doable on a 60m rope.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb face to bolted anchor.

Near the center of the cliff there is a small (2m) high buttress with a top that is a ramp heading up and right. Start here, climb up to the ledge, then up right, to a vertical crack. Follow this to the rising horizontal break, step left, then up another crack/flake system that goes up and slightly right. Gear anchor.

On the right side of the cliff, there is an obvious ledge about 4m up the cliff. This climb starts at an obvious crack below the left end of the ledge.

Climb the crack to the ledge, then follow and obvious crack that trends up and leftwards, through a slab section where the crack peters out, to an upper left-facing crack/flake system and the top. Gear anchor.

Below the middle of the ledge is a finger crack, start at this.

Climb the crack to the ledge. From the ledge climb the face above on small seams towards the roofs. At the roofs, go left then pull up into a dihedral and finish directly upwards. Gear anchor. (No bolts, despite them being shown in one local guide.)

Start on a crack a couple meters right of "Surfin' Safari". Follow this crack up to the ledge, then continue following it up and left the whole way. (This will pass entirely right of and above the roofs that "Surfin' Safari" traverses under.)

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