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Access issues inherited from Maple Canyon

Lower Maple Canyon is on private land, the upper part and most of the climbing is located in Manti La Sal National Forest, please respect the rules posted there.

Approach

Steep cave 1/2 mile up the road past the trail turnoff to the Pipedream. The cave is on the left side of the road at a switchback in the road. You can see it from the road.

Ethic inherited from Maple Canyon

Guidebook: Maple Canyon by Darren Knezek and Christian Knight

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts down on the ground, not from up in the cave.

Weird and hard to onsight at the grade.

Pumpy. The typical warm-up.

Start on the first 2 bolts of 1% and then bust right, finishes on the anchors of 1%.

Grade depends on amount of kneebars. 14a/b seems to be where it's sitting currently.

This is a really fun route with a hard clip and an intense roof crux to a very pumpy headwall.

Another really great route with lots of flowy movement and no distinct crux. Black fixed hangers.

FA: Chris Grijalv, 2011

Steep and powerful moves define the bottom bouldery section. At bolt 6, move right and join Gun Tower/911 at "the drunk buddy" cobble. A few more bolts of pumpy climbing gets you to the kneebar rest and the base of the 911 headwall. Rest up here and then gun for the chains. Pull the lip and stand on top of the Compound.

Pumpy and steep with loads of footwork to keep it doable. Bouldery and powerful moves before easy anchors.

Start on Gun Tower then cut right at the chain draw and keep truckin into the upper tier.

FA: Vince

The only route here people seem to dis.

Mixed reviews.

A classic. Loads of kneebars will tame the first three quarters, but then...

Many claim this is the best 13b here, but it's also probably the hardest. Powerful horizontal moves.

Set: Jeff Pederson

FFA: James Litz

Game on from the word go. Hang in there.

One of the coolest sequences at the Compound by the microwave boulder at 3/4 height. Named after the first ascentionist who cracked his head on one of the huge protruding cobbles.

FFA: Jeff Pederson

FFA: Ben, 2012

Shares the start with Silent But Deadly, breaking left. The crux starts off from the ground to bolt 3. Many feet cutting moves with poor hand holds and poor feet.

To the right of Gitmo. Short and powerful. Good route deserves more traffic.

Obvious large crack on right side of cave.

Begins on 3-2-1. After 3 bolts head left up the steep prow. Typical of Compound routes - longer, powerful movement with a pump expected.

FA: C. Grijalva, 2012

This is the route on the far right margin - may not have fixed draws. Don't confuse it with the new route squeezed in just left.

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