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Description

Nira's back wall, facing the VA Medical Center parking garage, is a more gradual, beginner friendly wall. Two bolts exist at the top behind the tree with 5 trunks. Other anchors can be fashioned around a few tress up top near the edge.

Access issues inherited from Boston

Many of the popular climbing areas in the Boston area lie in protected state parks and urban wildlife areas. Some are even conserved by special interest groups dedicated to preserving the history of climbing in the area. In and around the city, there are many walls and boulders that lie on semi-private and questionable land. Use your best judgement and follow your guides.

Routes

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Grade Route

It is on the VA parking lot side of the rock. This was not named, because it was climbed out of desperation during the COVID-19 pandemic but because there was a smashed Corona bottle on the ledge close to the top of the route. Climb the slab on the left until you can reach the jugs, then follow the jugs until you can mantel onto the ledge. You may need a bouldering pad.

FA: Mar 2020

At the base of this route there is a large tree that looks like it has five trunks. The route starts directly behind the tree that looks like it has five trunks. The crux of the route is at the beginning, the first ten feet or so of the climb. After climbing the first ten feet, traverse to the diagonal hand crack about 5 feet to the left. There is a loose block in the crack, so be careful what you grab. Once you reach the crack, the rest of the climb is about a 5.6/5.7. Continue straight up to the bolted anchors.

Top rope. There are two bolts on the top of the cliff for an anchor.

FA: 2014

Uncharted, but start slightly to the right and meet up at the top of the first ledge.

Follow the obvious crack up and around the small roof, then easy 5.5/5.6 climbing to the top.

Right up the middle to the right of Small Roof. Should be an easy introductory route for beginner top-topers. Anchor to the tree at the top with a long accessory cord.

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