Routes in Massacre Rocks State Park for selected grade

Wild layback!!

4-bolt variation to the start of 'The Wild Side'

Left side of steep slab, thin moves!

Up black bulge/face, kinky!!

(if you don't wimp out and use the block to the left!!), sustained, up two parallel seams to dihedral finish

Up thin face

Up z-seam face

Long, several cruxes

Start on short block, cruxy at second-to-third bolt, finish on steep arete

Up thin, flared crack, then face finish

Short, steep, fun!!

Crack through roof, face finish, steep and hard

Classic overhanging face to finger crack

Short, always hard, leaver-biner at roof

Long and hard, with several variations; right finish is the best & hardest

Pro crack, crux at upper arching finger crack, sustained, to sport anchors

Through bulge/roof, sustained, continuously technical, good in spite of some flaky rock

One of the best long routes at Massacre; good for a monster forearm pump!! original line goes straight up to a rest ledge, then a wild traverse left, (5.11d). Best variation diagonals left, avoiding the rest ledge

(a Mother's Day gift!) bolted face/arete, steep, great power moves off small holds

Hard and sustained form the start, the crux is above the mid-way anchors, arete finish, excellent!

Filthy start, good crux moves over bulge, good 5.11 climbing above

Bolt line, shares start with 'Beta Garden', then right and up overhanging headwall; technical, pumpy, great!!

Project on right side of slab

Wild arete, pumpy headwall

Project

Blunt arete start, thin crux moves on steep headwall

Share first 5 bolts with 'Fireworks on the Fourth' then traverse right at roof and up steep bulge for 3 bolts

Steep face left of big roof; scintillating moves!!

Same start as 'Magic Rings', then continues up arete; steep and mean!

Left most bolt line, short, tricky

Starts left of 'cave', over roof, then left to great arete climbing

Out of cave, then up and right to half-way anchors

Variation start of 'One Bad Stud'; clip the first 5 bolts of 'Big Balls in Cow Town', then right, up steep face to anchors

Same start as 'She Ain't Pretty, She Just Looks That Way', then diagonal left and up steep face; sustained and excellent

Up face/arete/face, marvelous climb!!

Shares the first 4 bolts of 'Tour De Pump', then up the blunt arete/face; Massacre's best 5.12a/b!?!?'

Same start as 'Prairie Dog', then right to nice sustained arete/face

5 bolts up crack/corner then finish on last 3 bolts of 'Flambe'

4 bolts on prow then 3 bolt face finish

Up layback/flare, short and mean!!

Starts at the left corner of the east-facing wall; go up 6 bolts to the top of the column and chain anchors (5.10a); safer to belay here if doing the more serious 3 bolts finish (5.12b)

Pocket-pulling crux

Down and 20 yards right of 'Sweaty Betty'; white face, thin moves

Up thin, technical white face, hard from the ground up!

Tricky moves, same anchors as 'Tricks Ain't for Kids'

Pockets, pumpy

Another pumper

Sustained

Just right of the corner where the east facing wall turns to southeast facing; starts off big boulder

Low bulge, long reaches and sustained

Climb arete right of 'Resistance Is Futile' shares last 2 bolts of 'Resistance Is Futile' some fun slapping

Up brown slab/prow

1-bolt variation, stick clip a bolt to the left of 'Crying Time' and to the right of the arete. Cool throw and climb into 'Crying Time'

Bouldery start! Up blunt prow with orange lichen

Starts in crux corner

Starts up huge, free standing flake

Hop up on the slab, then try getting on the face to the left

Steep prow, 3-bolt variation to the last 2 bolts of 'Hilti Goes to Heaven'

Left side of creamy white prow, chain anchors

Wildest horizontal moves at Massacre!! Traverse roof crack right to left

Left side of dihedral, thin crank up high

Up reddish face, crux low but sustained above

Up right end of wall, obvious crack start, way technical and fun!

Up prow, great!!

Steep headwall, great climb

You'll crack a smile getting up the slab/arete!

Take a poke in the hole, then get a good pump getting over the hump!

Overhanging face between two cracks

Bolts

Bolts

Boulder problem that is an instant classic. Sit start with both hands in lipped hueco. Climb steep wall up left. Top out pulling roof before going around left corner

Head up hueco'd crack then veer left. Shares last bolt and anchor with 'Bark'

Up technical, fingery arete. Watch for hidden holds

Heading up streaked face. Bouldery move off ground. Left crack is off

Arete, stick-clip first bolt?

Bulge start

Total, The bastard child of 'Dudes on Ludes' and 'Putty Butt'. Climb and clip first 2 bolts of 'Putty Butt' then head left on steep pocketed arete. Clip 2 more bolts and continue left to the anchors of 'Dudes on Ludes'

Much harder (5.12d?) if you use only the thin crack past the first bolt

Up cool vertical face with thin left arching seam up it. 90 yards to south across road from 'Pimping Is Easy' is a steep north facing wall

Up steep face, angles left

Climbs up steep crack to a hard lock off move to easier finish

Devious, balancy climbing up north face of pillar. Starts on slab 15 feet up