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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 24

Seasonality

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Summary

This wall faces south and can be climbed on the coldest of sunny days. The face climbing is not as crimpy as Windy Point and there are a number of routes that climb through or around roofs.

The Control Tower is at the right end of the wall. It has a 5ft. roof with a crack through it. At least three of the routes involve surmounting roofs. The Up The Creek Wall is 100 yards past the Tower. The areas rock is generally good but it has a bit of fuzz still coming off. You do need to pay attention as there is some stuff around that you want to avoid. If the rock seems bad there is a solid hold to be found somewhere. 40 plus routes from 5.9 to 12- Many of the routes anchors have leaver biners so all you have to do is clip and lower off. Two routes are 115 feet long and need a 70M rope. Both these routes have an anchor part way up with leaver biners on them so if you have a 60M rope you can still get down. A lot of the routes have leaver biners so you just have to clip in and lower.

Approach

The milepost 8.6. This is a left hand sweeper that has a slow car lane on the right. Park off the road to the right or a 10th of a mile back at the Thimble Peak Overlook.

A trail goes up the left side then hooks back right to the drainage getting you above the falls.

Cairns head up the hill. Approach will take 20-30 minutes depending on what your conditioning is.

If the creek is running getting to the Up The Creek Wall is best done from the base of the Control Tower. Drop down from the base of it maybe fifteen feet. At a belay seat turn left and follow the trail. It goes up and down a bit to avoid the thick stuff but only takes about 3 minutes to reach the cliff.

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Sun 23 Apr
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