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Description

Great crag near Ney Springs creek that drains the south side of castle lake. Found by John Ney on a hunting excursion in the late 1880s. Reciently has been developed for climbing by Chesko, Stan Miller, Tim Loughlin and Byron Cross.

Access issues

Drive south west from the town of Mt. Shasta to a four way stop. Turn left on south old stage road for .2 miles. Then veer right at the junction on WA barr road and drive 2.2 miles. Take the first left after the box canyon dam, castle lake road. Take the next hard left onto a dirt road, ney springs road. Continue for 1.3 miles and veer left up a four wheel road at the flat camping area. Look for a small trail on right side of road about a half mile up. You'll pass a few small springs on the rihht side of road.

Approach

10-15min hike up steep trail. Watch out fir poision oak and rattle snakes.

Routes

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Grade Route

One bolt, gear to 3". Moderate crack climb leads to a fun juggy roof.

FA: Stan Miller, Peter Chesko & Byron Cross

Mixed. Gear to 2". Be mentally prepared for the tricky pro above the last bolt. Crux comes as you pull through the bolt protected roof.

FA: Tim Loughlin, Stan Miller, Peter Chesko & Byron Cross

Gear to 4". A start that is a little spooky leads through tricky to protect face climbing. A short rightward traverse leads into a multi-tiered roof. Crux is the last move.

FA: Peter Chesko & Tim Loughlin, 1993

Mixed. Gear to 1". Start in the dihedral next to the big live oak tree and traverse into the first clip to your left.

FA: Tim Loughlin & Byron Cross, 1993

Climb the dihedral then traverse left and up the roof.

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