A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Mount Diablo
55 in Area
-
1.1.
Boy Scout Rocks 37 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Upper Tier 7 in Area
- 1.1.2. Middle Tier, West Face 5 in Area
- 1.1.3. Middle Tier, North Face 2 in Area
- 1.1.4. Lower Tier, North Face 3 in Area
- 1.1.5. Lower Tier, East Face 13 in Area
-
1.1.6.
Butt Rock 7 in Area
- 1.1.6.1. West Face 1 in Area
- 1.1.6.2. South Face 4 in Area
- 1.1.6.3. North Face 2 in Area
-
1.2.
Pine Canyon 18 in Area
- 1.2.1. The Teeth 3 in Area
- 1.2.2. Deliverance Rock 3 in Area
- 1.2.3. Castle Rock 1 in Area
- 1.2.4. Flintstone Rock 2 in Area
- 1.2.5. Mammoth Rock 0 in Cliff
- 1.2.6. Miller Pillar 2 in Area
- 1.2.7. The Pulpit 0 in Cliff
- 1.2.8. Barney Rubble 0 in Cliff
- 1.2.9. Pagoda Rock (Acid Rock) 3 in Area
- 1.2.10. Rock Of Ages (Cave Rock) 4 in Area
-
1.1.
Boy Scout Rocks 37 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mount Diablo 55 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 37.875702, -121.919630
access issues
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
1.1. Boy Scout Rocks 37 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.847116, -121.926815
summary
Featured sandstone that makes for technical face climbing as well as unique pockets and jugs
description
The Boy Scout Rocks are located within Mt. Diablo State Park ($10 entry fee!) and offers some of the closest decent sport and top rope climbs in the bay area. The rock is sandstone and the quality ranges from great to loose and sandy. The climbing is mostly technical face climbing, pockets, and jugs on vertical to slabby formations. A few cracks exist but placing protection can be questionable due to rock quality. Some excellent sport routes exist, with the majority of the climbs being an easy top rope setup from access at the top of each cliff.
The area is frequented by climbers and non-climbers alike, with "graffiti" often carved into the sandstone caves. Due to the nature of sandstone, CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN SETTING UP TOP ROPES! Access to the top of each cliff is easy (except Butt Rock) and allows for top roping but LONG SLINGS/STATIC ROPE ARE A MUST FOR MANY ROUTES! You will note many deep rope groves from top roping being setup far from the lip of the rock. Some routes have bolted anchors hangers in good condition, others have bolts missing hangers, and others are set up using natural features and trees.
Please climb softly as holds often break easily. Take care of this delicate but awesome rock! It is also advised to NOT CLIMB A FEW DAYS AFTER RAIN! Many holds have been broken off because the rock was still saturated from rain. The area sees moderate use so clean up after yourself and try not to destroy the rock!
The Lower Tier is approx. 90' tall and offers sport routes, trad routes and top ropes and has the highest quality rock and the best climbs. Be careful of loose bolts and anchors as many have not been upgraded. Amazing Face (5.9) and Ozone (5.10c) are area classics.
The Middle Tier is almost all top rope climbs, though there is a few cracks that could be done trad as well. Look for coldshuts on the top of the rock, which can be easily accessed from the far side (south) of the rock. Have a go at Jungle Book (5.10b) and In the Buckets (5.11c).
The Upper Tier is a tall piece of sandstone about 90 feet tall 100 feet across. Most of the routes are top rope due to the fact that it is unsafe to put bolts on the sandstone face. The obvious crack in the middle of the rock is known as Chouinard's Crack (5.9) and serves as an easy reference.
Butt Rock offers a variety of climbing from moderate slabby face climbing to steep face and finger crack climbing. Routes can be toproped using very long slings. A long 5.3 chimney on the south side is the easiest way to the top. A short rappel off the west face is the best way down. Butt Rock is about 100' north of Boy Scout Rocks and there is an easy 2 minutes approach trail leading down from the road. Looking down you can see the rock identified with several large boulders on top
access issues
State park. $10 fee.
approach
Park at Rock City. There is a turnout at the top of the upper tear, but I have been told you will be ticketed if you park there.
For easiest access to Lower Tier/Middle Tier from the bottom, cross the road and find a trail on the east side of the road near the bathroom that heads south (the direction you drove in from (if coming from south gate.) Follow this trail down along a small creek (drainage) for about 10 min. until you see the lower tier ahead of you and to the right. Scramble up to the base of the cliff. See tier descriptions for access info.
For access to top of Upper Tier, hike south along the road for a few minutes until you come to a rock formation on the east (your left) side of the road. This is the top of the Upper Tier and the tree that you see near the road in the middle of the rock is a common top rope anchor.
Butt Rock is about 100' north of Boy Scout Rocks and there is an easy 2 minutes approach trail leading down from the road. Looking down you can see the rock identified with several large boulders on top
ethic
Use long slings and ropes to ensure your top rope extends over the lip of your route. No more rope groves are needed! Don't climb a few days after rain due to the fact that you will break holds when the rock is wet and be sure to climb softly as some holds are delicate!
1.1.1. Upper Tier 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.846896, -121.926756
approach
The top of upper tier lays adjacent to the east side of the road. Access by simply walking down the road from parking at rock city until you see it on your left. Either rap down your top rope of hike/ scramble down the south side of the cliff.
Access is also possible from middle or lower tier by hiking up the north side of the rocks. You will see the obvious path up. Lower tier and the west face of middle tier share the same starting area
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Pie Crust
Located on the far right side of the face, this route starts at the dead log and climbs up to the crack/layback flake. The crux is getting off the ground. Follow the crack to just below the top. There is a blank section of rock prior to topping out. While the crack is solid, I havn't seen any of the bolts that are supposed to exist so I give it an R rating if you wanted to lead it. This route sees a lot of shade and seems to be rarely climbed due to the tough start. Protection Cams .75"-3" Long 20+ ft slings for toprope. | 5.11c | ||||
| 2 | Old Aid Route | A3 | ||||
| 3 | Face 1 | 5.11 | ||||
| 4 | Face 2 | 5.12 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Chouinard's Face
This climb has two variations, both start using Chouinard's Crack and move on to the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9). The 5.10a version beginning on the jugs starting just right of the tree and ascending up to the ledge/cave. The 5.11a variation starts just after the crux move of the crack about 15' up and moves our right and then up on balancy face climbing that will get easier as you climb until you run out of holds and have a brief stretch of slab before reaching a ledge/shallow "cave" where your top rope should hang. Protection Far atop the upper tier, there is a medium sized tree near the center of the cliff, set your toprope from this. You'll need about 40' of webbing to keep rope drag to a minimun. | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
| 6 | Chouinard's Crack | 5.9 | ||||
| 7 |
★★ Pebbly Face
Steep slab route with some fairly technical moves and some tiny hand holds. Starts left of Chouinards Crack with a few different starts. Look for tiny features for your hands and trust your feet. To reach the anchors, climb the 3rd/4th class slab with to the left of pebbly face. There are scattered bolts without hangers (bring your own if you want to use them) or climb a bit higher and use the trees and about 40'/50' of webbing/rope. | 5.10c | 200ft | |||
1.1.2. Middle Tier, West Face 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.846918, -121.926543
approach
Can be accessed by hiking down from the road at upper tier or hiking up the right (north) side from lower tier.
The middle tier faces the upper tier and both share the same area for starting the climbs.
To access the top, get to the south side of of the cliff and scramble up a short ramp to the top.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Crack | 5.7 | ||||
| 2 | ★ Face (#10) | 5.11 | ||||
| 3 | ★ Face (#11) | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 | ★★ In The Buckets | 5.11d | 62ft | |||
| 5 | ★★ Jungle Book | 5.10d | ||||
1.1.3. Middle Tier, North Face 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.847086, -121.926746
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Betty's Beard, Right | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | Betty's Beard, Left | 5.11b | ||||
1.1.4. Lower Tier, North Face 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Top roping and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.847243, -121.926388
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Face 1 | 5.11 | ||||
| 2 | Face 2 | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | ★ Diablo Jam / Crack To Face | 5.7 | 82ft | |||
1.1.5. Lower Tier, East Face 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.847157, -121.926132
approach
Best to approach from the trail that leads south from the bathroom east of the road at rock city. Follow the trail that wanders down into a creek drainage for about 10 min until you see lower tier in front and to the right of you about 25 feet from the main trail.
Access to the top for all routes except ozone is from the right (north) side trail up the hill. Pass a chimney and use the first well worn ramp up to the top. Scramble under a large boulder that makes a small tunnel to the top of the cliff and look for bolts and chains.
To access the top of ozone, follow the cliff face south until you can make it up a steep ramp to the top of the south side of the cliff. You will see a small cave. To the right of that is the cliff face with two bolts.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Earthcling (Dire Blow) | 5.11c | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Bolt Route
Located to the right of Amazing Face following the bolt ladder to a two bolt anchor with chains. The start is the crux and often an old bolt hole is used although not necessary. Look carefully to find holds. Gets a bit easier higher up until you reach the last bolt with a tough move or two to gain the anchor chains. Be careful of a flake that seems loose right below the chains. Great technical face climbing. Protection 12 quickdraws for lead (watch out for loose bolt up high, number 10 I think), or rap down from amazing face anchors to chains for top rope. | 5.11c | 75ft, 12 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Amazing Face
The most popular route here and most likely the one you will find people on. Starts at the main "cave" in the middle of lower tier and follows the left side of the bolts (which are all solid.) The right side of the bolts offers a slightly harder variation. Fine technical face climbing with good edges everywhere. Easily top roped with 2 bolt anchor on top. Protection Quickdraws for leading, 15 - 20' sling to extend top rope over edge. | 5.10a | 80ft, 10 | |||
| 4 | The Chimney | 5.7 | ||||
| 5 | Too Short | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 | Long Face | 5.11d | ||||
| 7 | ★ Dinosaur | 5.11c | ||||
| 8 | ★ Face | 5.11d | ||||
| 9 |
★★ The Diagonal
The obvious left-slanting diagonal crack. If top-roping, take care in the first 20 or so feet, as a fall here can cause the climber to swing left into the ground. | 5.10b | 110ft | |||
| 10 | ★ Stegasaurus | 5.10c | ||||
| 11 | ★ Godzilla | 5.11d | ||||
| 12 | ★★ Ozone Direct | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
| 13 |
★★ Ozone
The obvious right-leaning, overhanging offwidth, leading to a short fist crack. Climbs a lot better than it looks! | 5.10c | 66ft | |||
1.1.6. Butt Rock 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Lat / Long: 37.847463, -121.927520
1.1.6.1. West Face 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Cave Route (Butt Hole) | 5.10b | ||||
1.1.6.2. South Face 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Left Face | 5.7 | ||||
| 2 | Center Face | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | ★ Right Face | 5.8 | ||||
| 4 | ★ Chimney | 5.3 | ||||
1.1.6.3. North Face 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Chimney | 5.7 | ||||
| 2 | ★ Crack-A-No-Go Does Go | 5.11c | ||||
1.2. Pine Canyon 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 37.881444, -121.987118
summary
Adventurous climbing on exceptionally soft sandstone.
access issues
Pine Canyon is closed to climbing from February 1st through July 31st every year for Peregrine Falcon nesting. Do not climb here during this period - you will be caught, you will be fined, and you will jeopardize climbing access at this location!
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
approach
Park at the Diablo Foothills Regional Park Trailhead, then head south on the Pine Canyon trail (called "Castle Rock Rd" and/or "Stage Rd" on some maps). After 10-15 minutes pleasant flat walk the crags will become visible up the hill to the left.
For Castle Rock and Flintstone Rock, the first trail (just left of the rib of Castle Rock itself) is the best trail. For the other crags, continue along the main trail for another couple of minutes until you see climber trails heading up to the left.
1.2.1. The Teeth 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.882764, -121.985653
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Periodontal fracture
FA: Chad S | 5.9 | 52ft | |||
| 2 |
★ Root Canal
FA: Chad S | 5.12c | 56ft | |||
| 3 |
★★ Cavity
FA: Chad S | 5.11d | 56ft | |||
1.2.2. Deliverance Rock 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.882732, -121.988583
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Deliverance | 5.12a | ||||
| 2 | ★ Squeal Like A Pig | 5.11b | ||||
| 3 |
★★ Greased lightning
FA: Chad Suchoski, 2004 | 5.11d | ||||
1.2.3. Castle Rock 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.881926, -121.987948
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Castle Rock Cave | 5.6 | ||||
1.2.4. Flintstone Rock 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.881214, -121.986697
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Yabba-Dabba Dudes
Sustained, quality face climbing. As of 2003 this route had a very high first (second?) bolt - while there was a hole drilled for a sane first bolt there was nothing in it. | 5.10a | 98ft | |||
| 2 | ★ Pidgeon Tunnel | 5.8 | ||||
1.2.5. Mammoth Rock 0 routes in Cliff
1.2.6. Miller Pillar 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.880778, -121.987663
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Dingleberry crack | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
| 2 | ★★ Right Cheek | 5.11+ | 40ft | |||
1.2.7. The Pulpit 0 routes in Cliff
1.2.8. Barney Rubble 0 routes in Cliff
1.2.9. Pagoda Rock (Acid Rock) 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 37.880452, -121.986034
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ The Pillar | 5.8 | 120ft | |||
| 2 | ★ Face | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
| 3 | ★★ Pagoda Face | 5.10a | ||||
1.2.10. Rock Of Ages (Cave Rock) 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 37.880596, -121.985520
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Old Bolt Route | 5.11b | ||||
| 2 | Bad Bolts | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Rock of Ages Cave | 5.9 | 140ft | |||
| 4 | ★★ Red Face | 5.7 | ||||
