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Created about a year ago

Seasonality

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Description

A 40 foot high lump of crumbly serpentine right beside the road. Doesn't look like much from the road side, but the other side is steep and tall. May be worth bringing top roping gear if you're at all nervous about highballs, although there aren't a lot of options for an anchor (at one time there was a bolt on top, but all that's left is a rusty empty sleeve).

Landings are mostly excellent (flat gravel).

Access issues inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Approach

About a third of a mile up from the Rock Spring carpark is a white gate with a sign on it reading "Road Closed - Hazardous Road Conditions". The large parking lot for the boulder is immediately before this gate, on the right, and the boulder is blatantly obvious to the left.

Routes

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Grade Route

Left to right.

Start 10ft left of the base of the crack, at some low flat holds.

Start at the large undercling pocket at head height, about 4ft left of the base of the crack. Straight up through the obvious second undercling pocket.

Graded V2 in guidebooks, but that seems a bit sandbagged.

Start at the base of the crack, then blast straight up over the bulge.

Start at the two obvious head-height jug pockets, and follow the easiest line to the top.

Start just right of the right hand pocket on 'Camel High', using a large high left facing sidepull to get going.

Seems like there'd be another V4-ish line just right again, going over the next bulge.

Between 'Right Again' and 'Right Arete'.

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