Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Island Rock Gym | |||||||
Climbing routes | |||||||
5.12b | Grade 5.12b route | 9m | |||||
green halfslab can't get past the half part
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5.10c | ★ Grade 5.10c route | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Purple clouds halfslab
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5.11b | ★★★ Grade 5.11b route | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Green half-slab
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5.11b | ★★★ Grade 5.11b route - with Christian | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Black near exit door, crimp overhanging at top.
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5.9 | Grade 5.9 route - with Kate Pechenkina | 9m | |||||
Pink around corner and up to balcony
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5.8 | Grade 5.8 route - with Kate Pechenkina | 9m | |||||
red up arête, downclimbed too
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5.10a | Grade 5.10a route - with Kate Pechenkina | 9m | |||||
Yellow in corner
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5.9 | Grade 5.9 route - with Kate Pechenkina | 9m | |||||
Green
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5.10d | Grade 5.10d route - with Kate Pechenkina | 9m | |||||
Purple boomerangs
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5.10a | Grade 5.10a route - with Christian | 9m | |||||
Green next to black donuts I think
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5.11a | Grade 5.11a route — 3 attempts - with Christian | 9m | |||||
Black donuts
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5.10c | ★ Grade 5.10c route - with Sal | 9m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
orange on pillar double heel hook
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5.10a | Grade 5.10a route - with Kate Pechenkina | 9m | |||||
yellow bubbles left of prow
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Books Tier | |||||||
The Good Book | |||||||
5.9 | Gift Of The Kneebar - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | 18m | |||||
failed attempt. Rakkup and MP both show it a little right of where it must actually be.
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5.8 PG13 | Up The Slot - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | 18m | |||||
put the anchor in the wrong place, so traversed right at the end to avoid swinging hard
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5.10a/b | The Nephalim - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | ||||||
couldn't get past roof
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5.9 | The Contortionist - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | ||||||
Few attempts and then got it after Oleg did. The large shallow pocket with tiny edges inside is key
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Tower Wall Area | |||||||
Dave's Wall | |||||||
5.10+ PG13 | Fifty Foot Of Love - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | 15m | |||||
Got surprisingly far on this, gave up after trying the roof a few different ways
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5.8 | Seven Pieces Of Pro - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | 14m | |||||
I think I did it clean? I don't remember. Maybe tried a few times first.
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5.10a | Roofy Direct - with Kate Pechenkina, Oleg | 14m | |||||
One really hard move at the overhang
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps High Exposure Buttress Area | |||||||
5.6 G | ★★★ High Exposure | 70m | |||||
Testing
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Cascade Pass Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Above the Practice Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pete's Farwell - with andrew porhan | 46m | |||||
Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Slab | |||||||
5.5 |
★★ Regular Route
- with
andrew porhan
2
5.4
140ft
lead by
andrew porhan
4
5.5
120ft
lead by
andrew porhan
6
5.2
150ft
lead by
andrew porhan
| 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Beer Walls Lower Beer Wall Dihedrals Area | |||||||
5.6 PG | ★★★ Sword | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Spanky's Area Sunshine City | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Wmp - with Arbin Gurung, Chieko H, Stuart Rickard | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Stick clip for first bolt could be helpful. Often wet around 4th bolt (bring chalk)
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5.4 | Contos - with Arbin Gurung, Stuart Rickard | 24m | Average | ||||
Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Jewels and Gems | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Diamond and Coal | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 R | ★★ Pearl Necklace | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice route, there is alternative direct variant at the end which includes a move though the roof, a bit harder than the variant through the left.
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5.8 | ★★ Family Jewels | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Family Jewels | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really awesome! A Little steep crux with different possible solutions (I used different kneebars in all of them). After the crux, a nice hand crack which you can ommit taking the jugs on the left.
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Slab | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ Bob's Knob Standard | 260m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of fun. Went the day after rain and The 4th pitch (I think) was wet as stated in the guide book.
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5.5 |
★★ Regular Route
- with
Arbin Gurung, Chieko H, Stuart Rickard
1
5.0
150ft
2
5.4
140ft
4
5.5
120ft
6
5.2
150ft
| 240m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Cascade Pass Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Above the Practice Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Pete's Farwell - with Arbin Gurung, Chieko H, Stuart Rickard | 46m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Beer Walls Lower Beer Wall Pegasus Area | |||||||
5.8 G ~5.9 | ★ Anteater | 46m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool route but none of the pitches very easy in the best conditions, and yesterday it was wet.
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Cascade Pass Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Practice Wall | |||||||
5.4 | Practice Wall | ||||||
First lead of the season
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Gull Pond | |||||||
5.5 | Ugly as Sin 5.5 (Gull Pond Cliff): FA 2001, Jay Harrison - with Oleg, Kate Pechenkina | ||||||
Placed a cam and made one move, but was too sketched out to do the rest. Dirty rock, trees in fall zone, hold inside the crack was loose. Clouds of mosquitoes.
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Near Trapps Boulders Cream Cheese | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Cream Cheese | ★★★ Classic | |||||
V4 | Catch the Fly | Average | |||||
V5 | ★ Lemonade | ★ Good | |||||
V7 Easy | ★ After All | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Lake George Rogers Rock | |||||||
5.5 |
★★★ Little Finger
- with
Fran, Kate Pechenkina
1
2
3
| 180m | |||||
Led first two pitches, but then it started raining, so we bailed left to the rap rings. Loose flakes around the top of 2nd pitch.
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps Keyhole Area Keyhole Cliff Problems | |||||||
V3 Easy | March of Dimes | Don't Bother | |||||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps Steel Bridge Area Steel Bridge Boulders | |||||||
V6 | ★ The Dinky | ★ Good | |||||
V2 ~V1 | ★★ Lazy Mayzie | ||||||
Also did the slab exit v5
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V4 | Star Bellied Sneech | Average | |||||
V8 | ★★ Jackson Pollock | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Lake George Rogers Rock Campground Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Rangers' Run - with Kate, Oleg | ||||||
Good holds were hidden inside dirt-filled grooves. Sketched out because I thought it was more face climbing than it was. Rested. Started raining after I came down.
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Wed 31st May 2023 - Island Rock Gym | |||||||
Climbing routes | |||||||
5.11a | Grade 5.11a route | 9m | |||||
Orange diamondy holds
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5.11b | ★★★ Grade 5.11b route | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Purple roundular holds
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5.11a | Grade 5.11a route | 9m | |||||
Yellow slopers
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5.10d | Grade 5.10d route | 9m | |||||
Blue crescents
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps Guides' Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Middle Earth | 79m | |||||
5.6 | ★★★ Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst | 64m | |||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps Shockley's Area | |||||||
5.5 | ★ High Corner | ||||||
5.6 G | ★★★ The Ceiling | 82m | |||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps High Exposure Buttress Area | |||||||
5.6 G | ★★★ High Exposure | 70m | |||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps The Uberfall | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Maria | 77m | |||||
5.5 G | ★★ Frog's Head | 52m | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Ken's Crack | 15m | |||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Hurricane | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Quadrophenia | 110m | |||||
Fri 26th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps South Brat End | |||||||
5.4 | ★ No Picnic | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 24th May 2023 - Island Rock Gym | |||||||
Climbing routes | |||||||
5.11c | Grade 5.11c route | 9m | |||||
Green grapes of wrath
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Beer Walls Upper Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 G | ★★ Seven Ounces - with Wesker | 12m | |||||
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Beer Walls Lower Beer Wall Afternoon Delight Area | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Afternoon Delight - with Wesker | 18m | |||||
5.6 G | ★★ CWI - with Wesker | 15m | |||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Tilman's Arete - with Wesker | 46m, 1 | |||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Slab | |||||||
5.5 PG | ★★ Regular Route - with Wesker | 240m | |||||
Did the normal variation.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Tower Wall Area | |||||||
Dave's Wall | |||||||
5.9 R | Thread The Gap - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 15m | |||||
Kinda hard, fun cool moves
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5.10a | Roofy Direct - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 14m | |||||
Pretty tough overhang, but clean
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5.8 | Seven Pieces Of Pro - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 14m | |||||
Fun, not too bad.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Yankee Ramparts | |||||||
C U P | |||||||
5.11 | Crumbling Under Pressure - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 18m | |||||
Very hard, could not get anywhere even with cheating. Fall sent me into tree and then into rock. 😣
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5.9 | Between the Lions - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | ||||||
Kind of hard. The top is just covered in lichen, probably a route under it.
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5.7 | West Right Crack - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 12m | |||||
Smells like pee. As it says, it seems like off-width but actually isn't. Some lichen and moss and vultures sitting and looking at us.
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5.7 | West Left Corner / Crack - with Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 17m | |||||
Some fun moves. Crack smells like a urinal.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Slab | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ Regular Route
- with
Wesker
1
5.0
150ft
2
5.4
140ft
3
5.5
165ft
Missed the awesome crack and did direct slab instead.
4
5.5
120ft
5
5.7
50ft
chimney finish
6
5.2
150ft
| 240m | |||||
Fri 19th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps South Brat End | |||||||
5.5 G | ★ Black Fly - with Christian | 32m | |||||
Pretty easy. Went right up to the tree instead of left as Gunks App shows. Anchor around tree branch was not great; would be bad if it broke. Better to wrap cord multiple times for friction.
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps The Uberfall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Ken's Crack - with Silas, Christian | 15m | |||||
Difficult but not scary difficult. Silas watching placements. One ugly but solid cam, one mediocre nut.
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5.4 | ★★ Bunny - with Silas, Christian | 43m | |||||
Led with Silas watching. Pretty good, easy. Slung a piton instead of clipping.
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Near Trapps North End | |||||||
5.8 G | ★★★ Birdland | 62m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Near Trapps Center Section | |||||||
5.3 G |
★ Yum Yum Yab Yum
- with
Christian, Kate
1
lead by
Christian
Linked with P2 to the ledge with the tree
2
lead by
Christian
4
lead by
Jonathan Bright
Super sketched out on dihedral to triangle roof, slimy holds, no feet, not many parallel cracks. Did 5.1 variation but it's not 5.1! Traverse is harder than the previous 5.1 pitch. Rapped in the dark because poor judgment. | 76m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Near Trapps North End | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Grease Gun Groove - with Christian, Kate | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
P1 only. Very cool. Lots of interesting moves. First move may be the crux, but there are several similar. Hard, but felt confident, never scared.
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5.6 PG | ★★ Disneyland - with Christian, Kate | 68m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed third and cleaned. Not too hard. Really great view. Mantled and alpine knee on the first nose part, then pulled a roof above that. Linked pitches.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Rock Dojo Top-Rope | |||||||
God Jam Buttress | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Naked Singularity - with Yueran | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A very funny route combines weird off-width and crispy slab.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Tower Wall Area | |||||||
The Tower Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Rachel's Crack — 2 attempts - with Yueran | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
Peterskill | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Up a Tree - with Christian | ||||||
Followed Christian's first lead!
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5.8 | Flying Buttman - with Christian | ||||||
Got to the top but fell a lot. Only crimpy sidepulls available?
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5.8 | ★★ Psycho Crack Right - with Sal | 19m | |||||
Fun! A few actual off-width moves, but most I can reach past and find a good hold.
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5.9 R | Slap Shot - with Yarrow, Kate, Christian, Ken, Sal | ||||||
Can't get to top. was trying straight line variation shown here, not the curvy variation called Nobody's Fool
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5.6 | ★ Up a Tree - with Christian | ||||||
A few feet-trusting moves. Christian followed.
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5.8 | ★ Popcorn - with Yarrow, Kate, Christian, Ken, Sal | ||||||
A bit hard. Checked Christian's mock placements.
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5.6 | ★ Cool Hand Luke - with Yarrow, Kate, Christian, Ken, Sal | ||||||
A bit tricky compared to 5.3 trad lead the day before.
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps The Uberfall | |||||||
5.2 G | ★★ Easy Overhang - with Yarrow, Kate | 39m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very easy but still cool
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps McCarthy Wall | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ Three Pines - with Yarrow, Kate | 61m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Led all pitches. Went over diving board this time, then across face to ledge. 5.5 variation at the top.
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Thu 13th Apr 2023 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps The Uberfall | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Maria | 77m | |||||
Fun varied climbing. People who found the traverse hard to climb and protect went too high. Traverse right after the frog bulge. Trad anchor at the bottom of the dihedral. Last pitch can be linked but I decided not to do so for rope drag and encouraging the second.
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5.8 | ★★★ Son Of Easy O | 49m | |||||
technical moves down low that protect with small gear. The overhang is fun jug hauling but the protection is scarce so it's better to not spend too much time searching. One pitch with a 70m to the top.
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5.2 G | ★★ Easy Overhang | 39m | |||||
One pitch with a 70m if you runout good sections for rope drag management. Fun times
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5.7 | ★★ Ken's Crack | 15m | |||||
More sustained than other similar grades around. Slightly polished. Plenty of pro.
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5.6 | ★★ Rhododendron | 24m | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Laurel | 15m | |||||
One harder move down low with tricky pro. Then goes easily.
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5.5 G | ★★★ Horseman | 46m | |||||
Best done in one pitch. plenty of protection.
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