Routes in North Carolina for selected grade

use less make it hard its a fun climb on a expoesed face

An excellent climb!

1. Start in the gulley to the left of Jim Dandy, head up the slab, follow the natural line up the left where you can find pro, headed towards the gap between the two faces way way way up there. Easy climbing, but you will have sparse protection at about 15-20ft apart. This pitch ends with a length traverse to the right across to the 3 oldish bolts that make up the anchor. 170 ft (almost a full 60m rope).

2. Straight off the belay, lean across the void, clip a draw onto the bolt, then go for the peek-a-boo move!!!. I think the route then goes off to the right on a traverse, but I did it by going straight up following the roof system, probably bumps the grade up a bit, but great climbing either way.

3. There is a sea of slab in front of you that is very dirty and manky. Lunch ledge is a straight traverse to the right, or you can try find a clean path diagonally up and to the right to top out at Lightning Ledge. Or... you can rap from here and two 60's will bring you back to Jim Dandy first pitch, or "almost" all the way down to the ground, you will have to traverse a bit to get back into the original starting gully to come off rappel.

Well-protected mixed route with fun exposure and a great lunch ledge.

1. 70ft (5.4) Wander up the slab face that slants leftwards away from the shallow cave. Belay at double bolts.

2. 80ft (5.5) Diagonal left up and around the corner. Follow the short ramp past bolts. As the ramp gets less steep, gear helps. Aim for the trees.

3. 70ft (5.5) Walk up the path through the trees until you come to the cliff. Move left 20ft. Climb the bolted face up to the roof. Up and over to the bolted belay on lightning ledge.

It is possible to walk off from Lightning Ledge by following the track left. There are bolts up the exposed part of the scramble. It is a safe exit.

A great beginner climb that is well protected, vertical and is all on gear (no pesky bolts).

Start: Keep walking around the Eastern side of Tablerock, passing Jim Dandy, and The Cave Route. When you get around the back, follow the trail which is now burnt out and look for a path to the left leading up on top of a large boulder. It will be juggy vertical rock above you.

1. The best pitch of The North Ridge. Climb the juggy vertical rock, trending left around the overhung section, this turns into easy slab leading up to a nice belay ledge with 3 fixed pitons and a fixed 3 piece cordalette. Make sure to back this up with your own pro. This is a long pitch that takes lots of passive pro. (150ft, 5.5)

2. Climb up and trend right around the exposed arette. There is a direct finish straight up, or traverse right a little more and take the very easy, but vegetated and dirty finish. Pitch ends in shrubs with a gear belay. (70ft, 5.5)

3. An annoying pitch, a couple boulder moves at maybe 5.4 which generally means you should rope up, but then pretty much a walk off until you can find a spot to build another 3 piece anchor and belay. Some just solo this pitch. (50ft, 5.3).

Popular beginner climb. Many parties do only the first pitch.

1. (90', 5.5) Head up the ramp/corner, and then continue up the face, trending left a bit, to bolt anchors.

2. (100', 5.5) Head up and slightly right toward a big tree at the top.

Descent: Use two ropes to rappel to the P1 anchors from slings around the tree. One 60m rope will get you from the P1 anchors to the ground.

Location: From where the approach trail meets the South Face beneath the Stage Ledge, head about 100 feet to the right. Look for a right-facing corner/ramp with a crack in it.

Protection: standard rack, bolts at top of P1, slings and rings on tree at top of P2

Up a low angle boulder, left of Shredded Wheat. Very featured and easy climbing, but no real gear to speak of for most of the route. Bring a #4, it might protect up high. Also, watch those flakes up high, they are very hollow.

This route is a shorter variation of leaky roof so it isn't shown in the topo.

The bolts for lowering or for to-rope are very bad for the rope since the rope can get damaged from a very sharp ledge.

It's possible to climb above the ledge for a short distance to a slung tree (70m rope needed); most people stop at the ledge and rappel from there (60m rope sufficient).