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Access issues inherited from Lover's Leap

For all access issues, please contact CRAGS, the local affiliate of the Access Fund.

As of 2020 CRAGS is running a major multi-year stewardship project to help address the significant impacts this classic area has faced, from decades of high levels of climber traffic. If you have or plan on climbing here and are able to donate either money or time, your contributions will be greatly appreciated!

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Routes

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Grade Route

A classic line offering a little bit of everything.

  1. 30m (5.6) Up the nice slab following two diagonal seams (exceptionally thin gear - this would be a bold lead) to a bolted rap anchor. Can be skipped or TRed via a 4th class corner system up to the right.

  2. 15m (5.6) Nice slab past 3 bolts, then step right beneath the precarious perched blocks to a bolted rap anchor.

  3. 15m (5.2) Up the wide corner then left (watch out for a large loose flake) to the main corner (natural anchor) just near a small tree.

  4. 55m (5.7) The money pitch - follow the awesome narrow corner past several overlaps to a bolted rap anchor. Can descend from here with double ropes (recommended).

  5. 30m (5.7) Up and right past the obvious "fang" of rock, through several overlaps and past a number of death blocks, to the top. Walk off.

The 5th pitch is dangerous and not recommended - best to abseil off after P4.

Direct variant to pitch 3 and part of pitch 4 of 'It's Better with Bacon'.

  1. 35m (5.8) As for pitch 3, but instead of stepping left, continue straight up the sustained slab past 3 bolts to a large overlap. Over this (crux), passing one more bolt to hanging belay / rap anchor.

  2. 35m (5.8) Continue up the reachy slab to a bolt, then step left below the next overlap to rejoin 'It's Better with Bacon' P4.

FA: Tad Steel & Linda Jarret

Sustained quality climbing, and solid at the grade. Gear plus 2 bolts to a double bolt lower off.

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