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Grade Route
  1. 80 ft (5.3) Climb the ramp up the right side of The Fang to roof at the base of the chimney.

  2. 70 ft (5.8 R) Shuffle your way up the squeeze chimney to the next belay. Unless you're racking #4 Big Bros, get your head set for a 50 ft runout.

  3. 150 ft (5.7) Face climbing up and left takes you to a narrow gully ending in the South Notch.

  4. 140 ft (5.7) (Same last pitch as 'Scheister'.) Starting from the north side of the notch, climb the arch past one bolt and continue up a narrow gully to a tunnel. Pass through the tunnel to the west side, where several 4th class and 5.easy variations lead to the Middle Summit.

Walk off descent.


  • (5.10a) Once you reach the notch at the top of P3, take a brief detour up the 'South Summit Bolt Ladder' for an additional summit.
  • (5.8) Instead passing through the tunnel on P4, climb up and right past the bolt on the east face to stem your way to the summit.

Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it.

FFA: Warren Harding & John Ohrenschall, 1954

Short pitch from the notch of 'Harding's Chimney' to the summit of the south face. Pull on bolts to turn the 5.10 mantle into A0.

FFA: Warren Harding

Original variation. Climb 20 ft up 'Harding's Chimney' before traversing out right to some flakes at the 4th bolt. Continue up sustained knob climbing and smearing to the 2-bolt top anchor. Pro: huge pro for the chimney if you have it.

FFA: Paul Crawford & Rick Van Horn, 1982

The direct start variation demands challenging, technical climbing past the first 3 bolts before moving left to join the original route at the flakes before the 4th bolt.

FFA: Joel Moore

This bolted line up the beautiful arête left of 'Scheister'[] starts with perplexing and powerful moves before before easing into sustained 5.10 climbing up the arête to the 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Chris Clifford & et al., 1984

Climb the first 2 bolts of 'Beast of Burden', then traverse left. Face climbing on knobs takes you past 8 more bolts and 2 knob tie offs to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Gallows Pole'. Pro: slings for knobs tie-offs.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2006

Starts up the ramp left of 'Crushed Velvet' and 'Farley'.

  1. 140 ft (5.7) Stem the chimney, reaching in deep to place gear, until it narrows to a squeeze chimney, then pull out onto the face for the crux. Continue up and right to the standing belay on a large ledge.

  2. 160 ft (5.7) Excellent lieback and jamming leads up dihedrals to the South Notch.

  3. 140 ft (5.7) Finish on the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney'.

Walk off descent.


FFA: unknown

The last two pitches are seldom climbed. The start is located up the ramp at the base of the face between 'Scheister' and 'Farley'.

  1. 100 ft (5.10c) Face climbing with careful footwork up small edges and knobs. 9 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor. You can rap or top-rope with a 60m rope (barely).

  2. 80 ft (5.10d R) Runout 5.8 face climbing leads to better protected face moves at the crux. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor. Can be top-roped instead by climbing 'Scheister'.

  3. 140 ft (5.10c R) Runout 5.8 and 5.9 moves with better protected face moves before and after the aête. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt top anchor. Pro 1" to 2".

After P3, finish with the last 20 feet of 'Harding's Chimney' and walk off to descend.

FFA: Will Cottrell

Start on the first 20-30 ft of 'Farley' then continue straight up to the bolted line up the face.

Descent options:

  • Traverse right to summit on 'Farley' and walk off.
  • Rappel to the top of P1 on 'Blue Velvet'.
  • Rappel 100 ft to the top of 'Opus 7'. Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Aidan McGuire & Scott Bye, 1998

Climb up the first 20 ft of 'Farley', then head up and left to clip the first bolt (which is also the 5th bolt of 'Blue Velvet'). Continue up and right past two knobs for 75 ft to the second bolt (which is also shared with 'Crushed Velvet'). Continue up the face for another 75 ft to a horizontal crack, then head to the top.

FFA: Bill Todd?

The last two pitches are seldom climbed.

  1. 80 ft (5.9) Perfect, sustained liebacking up the consistent flake to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Opus 7'.

  2. 120 ft? Follow the chimney up left to a corner leading to a belay stance.

  3. 120 ft? Follow the corner up onto exposed runout face climbing up the Knobby Wall protected only by a couple of bolts.


  • If continuing past the first pitch, skip the bolted top anchor and build an anchor up in the chimney for a more comfortable belay stance.
  • The left side of the Knobbly Wall is 5.8R. The right side of the Knobbly Wall is 5.7 and also runout.

    Pro: 0.5" to 4" with doubles in the larger sizes.

FFA: Jim Orey, 1971

FFA: Eric Beck & Steve Roper, 1971

  1. 60 ft (5.11d R) Sustained climbing on thin features up a slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor shared with P1 of 'Farley'.

  2. Runout face climbing up to Silver Ledge. Rarely climbed.

FFA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith, 1987

Gaze in awe at this severely overhanging crack requiring difficult stemming and powerful finger locks. This used to be the last aid pitch of 'The Fracture' until it was freed in 1979 to become the second recorded 5.13. Thin pro to 1.5".

FA: Ken Edsberg & Jack Davidson, 1963

FFA: Antony Yaniro, 1979

FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1988

Hand crack up to sustained overhanging thin finger crack with fixed draws. The hand crack protects with a 2.5" cam.

  1. 80 ft (5.11b) Thin finger crack to sustained liebacking and a mantel to the 2-bolt chain anchor. Pro to 2".

  2. Runout face climbing up and left of Silver Ledge. Seldom climbed.

P2 variation: 'Lady Luck'.

FFA: Mark Hudon & Max Jones, 1976

Runout face climbing above 'Taurus' heads straight up past 1 or 2 bolts. Topo is approximate.

FFA: Luke Freeman & Bill Todd, 1976

Thin face climbing past bolts to finish at the top anchor for either P1 of 'The Fracture' or 'Taurus'.

FFA: Petch, 2005

  1. 80 ft (5.10d) Lieback crack to perfect sustained finger crack. Pro to 1.5".

  2. 120 ft (5.7) Dangerous loose flakes lead to the base of 'Grand Illusion'. Seldom climbed.

FFA: unknown

Tenuous face climbing up thin features to a 2-bolt top anchor. Runout near the end on 5.9 terrain. Top-rope this route by first leading 'Dominion'.

FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1987

Hand jams up a thin crack lead to liebacking and stemming. Finish the pitch on slabs and flakes to the bolted top anchor of your choice. Pro to 2".

Descent options:

  • From the 2-bolt anchor on the left: rappel to the top anchor for 'Telesis'.
  • From the 2-bolt anchor on the right: rappel to the ground with a 60m rope.

FFA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart & Jim Orey, 1972

Lock and lieback up the thin finger crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. Tricky pro before the crux. Pro: brass nuts, offset nuts, and cams to 3.5", with doubles in the smaller sizes.

Top-rope this route by leading 'Dominion'.

Descend with a 70m rope from the rappel station to the right of the top anchor.

FA: Gene Drake & Jim Hicks, 1970

FFA: Mark Hudon & Max Jones, 1979

  1. 110 ft (5.7) Climb the obvious corner ramp and chimney right of 'Captain Fingers' to a belay below the roof.

  2. 100 ft? (5.7) Continue up and right through the chimney past some roofs to the North Notch.

Pro to 3". Walk of descent. Loose chockstones have resulted in injury on this blocky, marginal route. Use caution.

FFA: unknown

Start in the corner with 'Lurch' and traverse left around the roof to follow the bolts up the face. A 60m rope is just long enough for top-roping. Pro to 2.5".

FFA: Aidan McGuire & Don Bradley, 2000

  1. 90 ft (5.8 R) Start in the corner with 'Morticia', then traverse around the roof to the right and up past 1 bolt to the 2-bolt chain anchor.

  2. 110 ft? (5.6 R) Runout knobs and mossy slab to a natural top anchor in a crack. P1 can be top-roped with a 60m rope. Pro to 2", slings for knob tie-offs. Walk off descent.

FFA: Jim Hicks & Larry Morris, 1971

Located right of 'Lurch', starts at the chains on the East Terrace. Face climbing past thin cracks and a horizontal to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Monkey Flower' and 'The Wanker'. Pro to 2". Phototopo is approximate.

FFA: Jerry Klatt, 2011

Start at the chains on the East Terrace to the right of 'Swallow's Tail', then climb the face up and right past small cracks and knob tie-offs to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail' and 'The Wanker'. Pro: small to medium gear, slings for tie-offs. Phototopo is approximate.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011

Start to the right of 'Monkey Flower' in the left-facing dihedral. Climb up to the crack and join 'Monkey Flower' to finish at the 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail' and 'Monkey Flower'. Pro: standard rack. Phototopo is approximate.

FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011

Bolted knobby route to the top of the pale egg-shaped boulder right of 'Lurch'. Phototopo is approximate.

  1. Follow cracks up low angle slab to a bolted top anchor. Rappel here, or...

  2. ... follow easy slab climbing and walk off from the top.

Pro to 3". Bolt count is approximate.


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