South Face / The Fang

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 8




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Grade Route

Thin face climbing up the right side of the arête to the top anchor shared with P1 of 'Bolee Gold'.

FFA: John Scott

To reach the base of the route, climb the ramp at the base of the south face and look for the bolts.

  1. 50 ft (5.10b) Sustained and well-protected sport climbing leads up the left-traversing line of bolts on small edges and knobs. 7 bolts.

  2. 50 ft (5.10c) Reachy face climbing up small knobs and edges. 4 bolts.

  3. 60 ft (5.6) Easy climbing over interesting rock. Pro: knob tie-offs and cams 0.75" to 3".

  4. 100 ft (5.8 R) Meandering face climbing to the summit. Runout 5.7 slab moves 20' above the last bolt may be the psychological crux. 3 bolts. Pro: questionable knob tie-offs, 3" cam.

Don't even think of grabbing those dangerously loose flakes near the arête on P3 and P4. With so many hanging belays, it may be no surprise that this route is seldom climbed in 4 pitches.

Suggested variations:

  • Finish the first pitch at the higher new-looking optional 2-bolt anchor (just hangers with no option to rappel) offering a comfortable belay stance on a ledge. Combine the rest of P2 and P3 for a total of three pitches.
  • With a 70m rope, stop at the 2-bolt anchor above the comfy ledge. The rest of route (5.10c) can be combined into a single über-pitch.
  • With a 60m rope, climb the route in two long pitches by combining P1 + P2 (150 ft) and P3 + P4 (190 ft). Set up the first hanging belay at the 3-bolt anchor with two rusted leeper hangers and one blessedly bomber-looking new bolt.

Descent options:

  • Rappel back down the south face with a 60m rope.
  • Rappel down the north side of the summit, climb the last pitch of 'Harding's Chimney', then walk off north.

FFA: Gary Anderson, Jay Smith & Rick Sumner, 1977

Finger crack to the overhanging arch, with two bolts leading to a chain top anchor. Pro to 3".

FA: Jim Orey & Charlie Jones, 1971

FFA: Mark Hudon & Max Jones, 1978

Finger cracks to a tightening chimney. Summit the fang at the bolted top anchor and rap off. Pro to 3".

FFA: Jim Orey & M. Vincent, 1971

Thin and difficult to protect crack climbing leads to challenging and sustained bolted face climbing. Rap off with 2 ropes.

FFA: unknown

Climb the thin flake shared with 'Bird Man'[20650141, then move right for delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the fang. Pro 0.4" to 0.6".

FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1982

Climb up the right side of The Fang, then traverse out left onto the face. Tie off knobs on your way to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Talking Heads'.

Variation (5.10d): Starting at the tree, follow the finger crack up the middle of the face of The Fang before moving onto the knobs above.

Top-rope this route after leading P1 of 'Harding's Chimney'. Pro to 1" with slings for tie-offs.

FFA: Greg Dexter & Steve Miller, 1976


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