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Summary
Sandstone
The Southern Region holds some of the most famous areas in the Red River Gorge with loads of steep but also some easier climbing. A must visit for everyone coming to the Red.
Description
Some of the best and hardest climbing in the Red River Gorge. The many sectors of the Motherlode Region are located within the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP), both owned by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition.
Access issues
Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices. All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners. Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear. Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails. No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted. No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose. Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
Approach
Head south on highway 11 towards Beattyville and take a right on highway 498. After 2km and the sharp right turn, take the next dirt road right (Bald Rock Fork rd). After about 1km you will see a first parking on your left (P1). Park there or continue down the steep road to reach parking 2 (P2) and 3 (P3) for Motherlode and Chocolate Factory. Continue further on the road to reach parking 4 (P4) on your left for Sore Heel Hollow and further on to parking 5 (P5) for Bob Marley and Drive-by. You might take a right up to another parking for Sore Heel Hollow just before P4. Follow the obvious and mostly marked trails to reach the respective sectors.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Brendan Leader
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9780645299915
- Onsight Photography:
- Comprehensive Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky
The Red River Gorge in Kentucky is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the world and the 2nd edition of The Red guidebook has all the info you need to plan your next climbing adventure.
- 2nd edition adds 245 new climbs, 4 brand new crags, fresh action shots, additional topo shots and maps plus improvements to overall usability
- Includes details and descriptions of 2,586 routes and 106 crags
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Author(s): Dario Ventura and Mike Williams
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781938393327
- Wolverine :
- Selected from the area's more than 3,000 routes across 54 crags, Red River George Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend climbing fun in Kentucky.
- Index of classic routes highlights the grade of each climb and indicates if the climb is better suited to sport or trad climbing
- Helpful icons help you plan your day with driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection and kid-friendliness
- GPS coordinates and detailed directions help you find your destination easily
ⓘ
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Nearby Icons
| 5.8 | ★★★ 27 Years of Climbing | ||
| 5.10b | ★★★ A Brief History of Climbing | ||
| 5.10c | ★★★ Loompa | ||
| 5.10d | ★★★ Breakfast Burrito | ||
| 5.11a | ★★★ Whipstocking | ||
| 5.11b | ★★★ Amarillo Sunset | ||
| 5.11c | ★★★ Red Bull | ||
| 5.11d | ★★★ June Bug | ||
| 5.12a | ★★★ Check Your Grip | ||
| 5.12b | ★★★ Samurai | ||
| 5.12c | ★★★ Blowin' Loadz | ||
| 5.12d | ★★★ Leave it to Beavis | ||
| 5.13a | ★★★ Rules of Engagement | ||
| 5.13b | ★★★ The Castle Has Fallen | ||
| 5.13c | ★★★ Black Gold | ||
| 5.13d | ★★★ Last of the Bohicans | ||
| 5.14c | ★★★ Lucifer | ||
| 5.14d | ★★★ Pure Imagination |
Photos Browse all photos
Paul Frothy Thomson on ★★★ Gene Wilder 5.12d - IMG_6188.jpeg
★★★ Breakfast Burrito 5.10d - PXL_20240327_193632239.jpg
/d8/00/d800a7f87a1586d9dcdcdb83f2b429df302af380)
DinosaurRwarr at The Bear's Den - 44CB15FB-0A78-4B4B-AE24-2771C10EC373.jpeg
Christopher Glastonbury on ★★★ Gene Wilder 5.12d - IMG_6181.jpeg
Wed 19 Apr
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