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Magic Bus Rock climbing 6 routes in cliff

Grade context: US
Photos: 1
Ascents: 245

YDS

5.8 5.9

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Description

Magic Bus is the ovalish varnished wall (with a triangular cut-out on the lower-right side) sitting perched on top of the first layer of slabs just across the gully from the 2nd pull out. It is a warm, south-facing wall with generally easy routes on it; in many ways the approach is the crux of this wall, but picking it out from the parking lot can help for having an idea of where you're heading while negotiating the gullies and slabs on the way.

Descent notes

Rap/lower off anchors.

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Routes

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The left-most bolted route.

The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing.

Starting just right of "Electric Coolaid", climb the right sloping crack until it turns vertical and peters out in the slight scoop in the face, then follow two bolts up and leftwards to the shared anchor.

Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall.

Climb the thin crack about 10ft right of Neon Sunset until it runs out, then up a seam, then run out to a bolt, then to the anchor for whichever adjacent route you choose.

Start on the left side of the triangular cut-out, and follow the bolts up and generally right-wards to an anchor.

Start a couple feet right of the triangular cut-out at a wide crack in the lower rock. Climb up this and a thin seam through the nearly solid varnish to a bolt. Then, continue up the wall past two more bolts to anchors.