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Created about a year ago

Seasonality

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Description

A massive 45' tall boulder that's cracked in half (hence the name). This is one of the best places in the Bay Area to take beginners or kids, though the holds on the West Face are quite rounded making for insecure climbing which may baffle those new to the sport - the South Face may be a better introduction for raw beginners.

Bring a solid rack up to 3' and a lot of long slings (or better yet, a second rope), as the protection for the top-rope anchors is a long way back from the edge.

Access issues inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Approach

From the parking lot at the end of Taylor Rd the boulder is obvious, straight ahead.

Routes

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Grade Route

The corner crack around to the left of the main wall.

The nice slab between Corner Crack and Left Arete, staying off both.

The stylish left arete of the main wall.

The wall between Left Arete and Left Crack.

The thin leftmost crack / ramp that peters out halfway up.

The two cracks in the middle of the face that merge up high. Both are equally fun.

The wall between Center Crack and Right Crack - jugs on either side are off.

The rightmost crack, with a slabby crux up high.

The wall right of Right Crack.

The dihedral corner.

The bulging wall above the shrubbery, left of south crack.

The thin, left leaning crack left of the split.

The arete forming the left side of the split.

Chimney up the split wherever you like.

The next four routes are on the left (West) side of the split, described outside-in (left to right). There are more variants than described here.

Up the crack then right and up the face.

Directly up the face to join Pinball Wizard.

Further into the split are a variety of 5.12ish routes climbed by Russ Bobzien in the 1980s.

Further into the split are a variety of 5.12ish routes climbed by Russ Bobzien in the 1980s.

The next six routes are on the right (East) side of the split, described inside-out (left to right).

Furthest route inside the split.

Closest to the outside of the split.

Straight up the arete forming the right side of the split. Some loose rock.

The lovely orange slab right of the split can be top roped anywhere you like - it's great for little kids and beginners who don't have climbing shoes. Be careful of loose rock, in particular the large "shield" at half height, right of the split.

A large, loose looking shield of rock.

Traverse the boulder from Corner Crack to the uphill end of the South Face. Crux is at Unnamed 6 on the South Face.

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