Routes in United States of America

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
5.5 G Horseman

FA: Hans Kraus & Fritz Wiessner

Trad 46m, 2 Shawangunks
5.6 G High Exposure

FA: Hans Krauss & Fritz Wiessner †, 1941

Trad 70m, 2 Shawangunks
5.7 A0 Royal Arches Route

An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.

  1. 5.6 100ft Chimney. There are several variant starts, most of which are better than this pitch.

  2. 5.4 200ft Walk right along ledge to short crack (5.4).

  3. 4th 200ft Continue right along ledge.

  4. 5.6 100ft Crack on face.

  5. 3rd 200ft Continue right along ledge until it ends.

  6. 5.6 or 5.7 100ft Up cracks (5.7), or the exposed corner further right (5.6) to dead pine tree (lots of belay options).

  7. 5.6 150ft Up cracks and blocks (optional belay) then up sandy pin-scarred groove.

  8. 5.6 100ft Sustained jamming to tree.

  9. 5.6 100ft Easy offwidth trench to lovely cracks.

  10. 5.4 100ft Blocks to A0 pendulum (goes free at 5.10c - slick water polished slab). Move left along ledge system to base of next corner.

  11. 5.7 100ft Flake and tree, then step left around major arete.

  12. 5.6 165ft 2 corners to belay at tree.

  13. 5.5 100ft Angle up and left with tricky pro.

  14. 4th 100ft Continue angling up and left on slab to rappel bolts. The rappel route starts here.

  15. 5.4 150ft Exposed horizontal slabbing left to trees. Rim is 300ft above here.

Trad 430m, 15 Yosemite National Park
5.5 G Jackie
1 5.5 G
2 5.3 G
Trad 40m Shawangunks
5.4 Bunny

FA: Ann Church & Kris Raubenheimer, 1955

Trad 43m Shawangunks
5.5 G Frog's Head

FA: Lorens Logan & Fritz Wiessner †

Trad 52m Shawangunks
5.3 Three Pines
Trad 61m Shawangunks
5.7 R Snake Dike

Bolts replaced in 1992.

FFA: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965

Trad 550m, 8 Yosemite National Park
5.8 Nutcracker

FFA: Royal Robbins & Liz Robbins, 1967

Trad 180m, 5 Yosemite National Park
5.6 Rhododendron

FA: Dick Bonker & George Lewis

Trad 24m Shawangunks
5.8 Bishop's Terrace
  1. 100' (5.7) Up the finger crack making your way up to the obvious hand crack. Gear belay (pro 1"-1.5"). A large flake takes a nice sling but puts you in a semi hanging belay.

  2. 80' (5.8) Follow the awesome hand crack up to the dual crack system, move to the righthand system to finish out.

Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch.

FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959

FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960

Trad 55m, 2 Yosemite National Park
5.7 Laurel

FA: Thornton Read, Norton Smithe & Lester Germer

Trad 15m Shawangunks
5.7 The Bastille Crack
1 5.7
2 5.6
3 5.7
4 5.6
5 5.5

One of the most climbed routes in North America: Almost no approach, 350 feet of moderate crack climbing and all day shade.

FA: US Army climbers, 1954

FFA: Stan Shepard & Allen Bergen, 1957

Trad 110m, 5 Boulder
5.7 PG13 Double Cross

Warning: The first 20 feet of this climb are unprotectable and have sent many an unprepared climber to hospital.

Trad 30m Joshua Tree National Park
5.8 Five Gallon Buckets Sport 25m Smith Rock State Park
5.7 After Six
  1. 130ft (5.7) Jam up the right-facing dihedral with insecure footholds on slick, polished rock. Belay at the tree.

  2. 50ft (3rd class) Scramble up 3rd class to a large manzanita at the base of a wide crack.

  3. 80ft (5.6) Wide crack climbing leads to face climbing. Continue up and right to belay at an alcove on a ledge.

  4. 130ft (5.5) Easy slab climbing leads to a large ledge.

  5. 80ft (5.6) Easy slab climbing on knobs leads to crux liebacking up a flake. Continue up to another large ledge and belay at the tree.

  6. 90ft (5.6) Follow the crack up and right. Belay from cracks atop the buttress. A fun 5.8 alternate finish follows the thin flakes and broken cracks up left before traversing back right across the steepest rock directly below the summit.

Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4.

Pro to 2".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider, 1965

Trad 180m, 6 Yosemite National Park
5.11a Whipstocking

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1997

Sport 24m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.9 Central Pillar of Frenzy

One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch).

FA: Jim Bridwell et al., 1973

Trad 170m, 5 Yosemite National Park
5.7 Glory Jean's

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

FA: Mark Sprague

Sport 24m, 8 Rumney
5.4 PG Gelsa

FA: Becket Howorth, George Temple & Fritz Wiessner †

Trad 61m, 3 Shawangunks
5.10d Serenity Crack

FA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961

FFA: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967

Trad 110m Yosemite National Park
5.8 Sail Away

Super classic crack climb.

Trad 26m Joshua Tree National Park
5.9 Bonaire

A nice lead, though many seem to skip the first bolt, and start right of it to climb to 2nd bolt.

Sport 18m, 6 Red Rock
5.6 G Shockley's Ceiling

FA: Bill Shockley & Doug Kerr

Trad 82m Shawangunks
5.9 Moonbeam
Sport 15m Red River Gorge
5.8 Church Bowl Lieback

4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1".

FFA: unknown, 1987

Trad 37m Yosemite National Park
5.9 Commitment

Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff.

FFA: Jim Bridwell, David Bircheff & Phil Bircheff, 1966

Trad 100m, 3 Yosemite National Park
5.6 Munginella

Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel.

FFA: Tom Fender & Vic Tishous, 1966

Trad 110m, 3 Yosemite National Park
5.10a To Defy the Laws of Tradition

FA: Porter Jarrard & Chris Snyder, 1992

Sport 18m, 7 Red River Gorge
5.5 Arch

FA: Hans Kraus & Bonnie Prudden

Trad 79m Shawangunks
5.4 Ecstasy Junior
Trad 46m Seneca
5.6 Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

FA: Hans Kraus & Harry Snyder

Trad 70m, 3 Shawangunks
5.7 Toe Jam
Trad 20m Joshua Tree National Park
5.9 Sunshine
Sport 15m Red River Gorge
5.8 Eight Flake

Follow the big flake system. Great route for the grade.

Sport 15m, 5 Austin
5.10 Incredible Hand Crack
Trad 30m Indian Creek Canyon
5.6 Cat in the Hat

One of the most popular multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks due, at least in part, to large comfortable belay ledges the whole way. Can be rappelled on one 70m rope with a bit of 4th class down-climbing, or with two ropes.

Starts below an obvious left-slanting crack.

  1. 150' 5.5 - Climb the left slanting crack, skip the optional belay at 90', up a wider crack to a ledge, then continue up the crack to another ledge. Bolted anchors are a few yards out to the right.

  2. 50' 5.5. Hike right along the ledge, boulder up to the next ledge, and up gentle slabs to a steeper wall. Re-belay from here, then up steepish black wall to a small overhang, the up a left-facing corner to a ledge with trees. End on a belay off a small group of trees.

  3. 120' 5.6. Start up 4th class terrain about 15' to a small ledge, climb a thin crack in the varnished face left of a small corner to a small roof, traverse left under the roof to another crack that continues upwards, and up this to a ledge with a large block on it. Belay off slings around the large block.

  4. 50' 5.3. Traverse right and a bit down to a ledge with a crack above it and anchors.

  5. 110' 5.6. Climb the crack, past a bolt to run-out 5.5 terrain to the anchors. Most people end here at the anchor and rappel.

FA: Harrison, Broussard & Van Betten

Trad 210m, 5 Red Rock
5.5 Fingerlocks or Cedar Box
Unknown 18m
5.6 III Southeast Buttress

Seemingly intimidating from afar, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is a beautiful 5 pitch route filled with lovely moderate climbing.

A must do when in Tuolumne, Cathedral Peak can become quite crowded, fortunately the climbing offers many ways to navigate around other parties, at least down low (up high the face narrows, and parties tend to get bottlenecked).

Alpine 220m, 5 Yosemite National Park
5.7 Rise And Shine

Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors.

Sport 15m, 5 Rumney
5.10a Gelatin Pooch Sport 10m Red Rock
5.10b Pump First, Pay Later Sport 10m Red Rock
5.10c East Buttress
Trad 340m, 11 Yosemite National Park
5.5 G Black Fly

Starts a few meters (yards) right of Easy, up an easy right angling-corner ramp. Step right onto a small ledge, then up crack systems towards a small roof; exit on the left and finish up the crack.

FA: Gardiner Perry & John Bousman, 1959

Trad 32m Shawangunks
5.6 Thin Air
  1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

  2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

  3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

  4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

Trad 91m, 4 Cathedral Ledge
5.10a Lonesome Dove

One of the best routes of its grade at Rumney. On Jimmy Right, it's the rightmost route that follows a blunt arret up to some tricky moves along the face. Small holds and small feet make this one a bit of a puzzle. Rounded crack lines require a bit of searching for good purchase. Don't go too far right around the corner, or you'll find yourself up shit creek without a paddle. To get to the anchors, choose between going right to undercling a large flake, or left, using a series of easy cracks to gain the anchors. Fantastic route and quite popular, but absolutely worth it.

FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989

Sport 24m, 7 Rumney
5.9 Buck's Muscle World Sport 8m, 3 Red Rock
5.11b Fuzzy Undercling
Sport 18m Red River Gorge
5.9 My Name Is Mud
Sport 10m Austin
5.9 C2 VI The Nose

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

  • 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
  • 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)
  • 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05
  • 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
  • 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
  • 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
  • 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
  • 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
  • 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
  • 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
  • 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
  • 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55
  • 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30
  • 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
  • 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33
  • 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05
  • 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45
  • 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46
  • 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44
  • 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07

FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958

FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993

Aid 1000m, 31 Yosemite National Park
5.10d Breakfast Burrito

FA: Gene Hume, 1995

Sport 24m, 10 Red River Gorge
5.9 Jamcrack Route
1 5.7
2 5.9

5.7 hand crack with V at top to ledge; move left a few feet then 5.9 fingers crack to second anchor.

Trad 53m, 2 Yosemite National Park
5.10a Orange Oswald
Sport 21m, 7 Summersville Lake
5.10b A.W.O.L.
Sport 15m Red River Gorge
5.9 Regular Route

FFA: Wally Reed & Chuck Pratt, 1958

Trad 300m, 12 Yosemite National Park
5.8 Brief Encounter

Left-most bolted line on the front of the cliff.

FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson

Sport 20m, 6 Red Rock
5.10c/d Prototype

Big holds low down lead to more balancy climbing on top. Great warm-up or route for the grade.

Sport 15m, 5 Austin
5.10a The Rico Suave Arete Sport 20m New River Gorge
5.6 Easily Amused

Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees.

The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon".

Sport 10m, 3 Rumney
5.8 Mr. Bungle

FA: Jeff Moll, 1992

Sport 18m, 6 Red River Gorge
5.10 Supercrack of the Desert

FA: Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1976

Trad 30m, 3 Indian Creek Canyon
5.8 Neon Sunset

Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall.

Sport 14m, 9 Red Rock
5.7 Ken's Crack

FA: Ken Prestrud & Lucien Warner

Trad 15m Shawangunks
5.11d Sweet Pain Sport 15m, 5 Red Rock
5.10a Moby Dick, Center

Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing.

Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4".

FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963

FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963

Trad 58m, 2 Yosemite National Park
5.8 The Junco

On the far right side of Jimmy, but to the left of Lonesome Dove (blunt arret). Start up the slab to some tricky moves that allow you to gain the finger crack. Follow the crack up, using some sweet layback moves over a bulge at the top that will leave you feeling quite exposed.

Watch out that your rope doesn't get stuck in the finger crack near the top.

FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989

Sport 24m, 8 Rumney
5.7 Boxer Rebellion

Starts where the ledge turns into a ramp up to the right.

FA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson

Sport 15m, 6 Red Rock
5.8 II Dark Shadows
  1. Climb the slab between bolts. Stay calm, it really is easy.... (5.5)

  2. Stellar pitch up a dihedral crack system, you should try get another red cam stuck, this pitch needs more fixed gear! Can be linked with pitch 1. (5.7)

  3. A long, long and rewarding pitch, the desert paten looks intimidating, but those cutouts are just sooooo good. For a confident leader you will be running this one out. (5.7)

  4. The money pitch, but so short. Trend right off the belay over lots of air. Negotiate the offwidth, look around for gear, then fire out to the right across a series of stellar, unprotected but bomber face moves. Unreal. (5.8)

Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.

FA: Nick Nordblom & Jon Martinet, 1979

Trad 100m, 4 Red Rock
5.7 Hippie Dreams
Sport 23m, 7 Summersville Lake
5.9 Sport Climbing Is Neither Sport 8m, 3 Red Rock
5.6 PG Disneyland

FA: Dave Craft & Eric Stern

Trad 68m Shawangunks
5.11d Ro Shampo
Sport 18m Red River Gorge
5.6 SW Corner
Sport 12m Joshua Tree National Park
5.9 Bolt And Run

Climb the bolted face between the chimney and the crack.

FA: Glen Cilley

Sport 18m, 6 Rumney
5.8 After Seven

An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.

  1. 120ft (5.8) Hand and finger crack climbing leads to face climbing at the crux. Belay near the large manzanita.

  2. 140ft (5.7) A hand crack leads to low angle scrambling to gain the ledge.

Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six.

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

Trad 79m, 2 Yosemite National Park
5.7 Silk Panties

The right-most bolted route, about half-way up the ramp.

FA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain

Sport 12m, 5 Red Rock
5.7 C Sharp or B Flat

FA: Tina Bronaugh & Jennifer Rannells

Unknown 20m
Red River Gorge
5.9 Bon Ez Sport 20m, 7 Red Rock
5.9 Creature Feature

FA: Kevin Pogue & Elisa Weinman Pogue

Sport 18m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.8 The Nose

This route is a lot of eyebrow climbing fun. One of the classics of looking glass. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

  1. (90', 5.5) Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge.

  2. (100', 5.8) Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance.

  3. (100', 5.8) From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on.

  4. (100', 5.7) Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

Location: From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection: Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.

FA: Steve Longenecker, Bob Watts & Bob Gillespie, 1996

Trad 120m, 4 Looking Glass
5.7 G Something Interesting
Trad Shawangunks
5.10b Church Bowl Tree
  1. 60' (5.10b) Climb the pin-scarred right-leaning crack. Great clean aid practice.

  2. Seldom climbed. Rivet and bolt ladder leads to tree with rap rings.

FA: Tom Rohr

FA: Mike Jefferson & Dave Collins, 1970

FFA: unknown, 1982

Trad 18m, 2 Yosemite National Park
5.10a Reimerama
Sport 10m Austin
5.8 Bolt Line

Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.)

FA: Bradely White

Sport 24m, 8 Rumney
5.9 Yoda Sport Rumney
5.10a Light on the Path Sport 30m Smith Rock State Park
5.10b East Buttress

FA: Allan Steck, Willi Unsoeld, Bill Long & Will Siri

Trad 500m Yosemite National Park
5.7 Asbury Park

Climb the blunt corner below the railway ties, easier if you go around the corner to the left at times, more difficult (maybe 5.8) straight up the bolts.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 1990

Sport 15m, 5 Rumney
5.10c Running Amuck Sport 10m Red Rock
5.8 30 Seconds Over Potash

A great intro to climbing trad in the Moab area. Right facing corner to a 2 chain anchor.

Trad 21m Potash Road
5.7 R Bear's Reach

FFA: Phil Berry & Robin Linnett, 1956

Trad 110m, 3 Lake Tahoe, California Side
5.3 Skyline Traverse
Unknown 67m
5.9 Flight of the Gumbie

Starts on the right face of the big corner and continues up the arete.

FA: Gary Beil & Doug Cosby

Sport 24m, 9 New River Gorge
5.10a Phoenix

Optional 3" cam protects moves below the first bolt.

Sport 27m, 5 Smith Rock State Park
5.7 Strictly From Nowhere
Trad 68m Shawangunks
5.8 Frogland
Trad 290m, 6 Red Rock
5.10c A Brief History of Climbing

FA: Blake Bowling, 2006

Sport 23m, 9 Red River Gorge
5.10a Egg McMeadows Sport 15m, 5 Rumney
5.9 Over Easy
Sport 14m, 5 Austin
5.8 Snake Skin Slab

Starts at an obvious flake jutting out of the ground. A bit run-out after the last bolt to the anchors, but easier terrain.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 1989

Sport 12m, 4 Rumney

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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