The Parking Lot Wall




The closest wall to the parking lot, making it a favourite -- it has a variety of easier routes.

Access issues inherited from Rumney

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.


Take the right-hand trail behind the notice board. Short approach, but stay on the trail as there are rare plants in the area.

Descent notes



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Grade Route

Often wet.

Has a large down/right facing corner -- climb up easyish ground, then move left around the corner and up.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 2004

Often wet.

Climb a series of nice flakes up the usually wet rock.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 2000

FA: Jim Shimberg, 1998

Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's".

Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry.

FA: Cliff Mask & Tim, 2000

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

FA: Mark Sprague, 1996

Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees.

The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon".

FA: Chris Smith, 1996

Extension of "Easily Amused".

Can be done as a 2nd pitch, but also easily done in a single push clipping one of the bolts of the Easily Amused anchors along the way.

FA: Jim Cullen, 2009

FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 2001

Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors.

FA: Ward Smith, 1996

Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully.

Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area.

Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section.

FA: Dave Quinn, 1997

Climb up the almost always wet, but low-angle rock left of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" ascends to a high first bolt, then up the great climbing up the steep face above.

Another long route for the Parking Lot wall.

FA: Dave Quinn & Christine Callaghan, 2003

Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet.

Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs.

The next three routes start from a ledge -- go right up the stairs, then left along the ledge to find them.

Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake.

Up the blocky corner to an obvious chimney, then stem up the chimney to the anchors. Yes, the fun of a bolted chimney!

Right-most climb at the Parking Lot Wall -- from the right-most trail from the parking, if you turn right instead of going to the main section, you'll go up steps that lead directly to the base of this route.

Often wet.

In Ward Smith's (2009) book as 5.5, but the 5.7 grade listed here seems more reasonable.


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