A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Safe Harbor
94 in Crag
- 1.1. Blood Sugar Magic Sector 3 in Sector
- 1.2. Electric Co. Sector 16 in Sector
- 1.3. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 1 in Sector
- 1.4. Machismo Sector 9 in Sector
- 1.5. Super Slab Sector 6 in Sector
- 1.6. Autumn Arch Sector 16 in Sector
- 1.7. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector 11 in Sector
- 1.8. Numero Uno Sector 10 in Sector
- 1.9. Train in Vain Sector 8 in Sector
- 1.10. Hydroman Sector 11 in Sector
- 1.11. Key West Wall 3 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Safe Harbor 94 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.915164, -76.375070
description
Visit SafeHarborClimbing.com and join the SH climbers’ Facebook page for further updates and to help with upcoming projects and fundraisers (for parking improvements, information kiosk, and anchor replacement). Please email route comments, corrections, etc. to: Eric@SafeHarborClimbing.com
access issues
It sure was a long and winding road, but after a 15-year closure some of the crags at Safe Harbor have re-opened to climbers! Currently only the southern crags are open, but there’s a good chance the northern areas (home of the highest climbs) will re-open in 2012. A complete guidebook will be published once all the crags are open to climbers—until then, I hope you will find this mini-guide helpful in your visits to the SH south crags this winter.
The Safe Harbor “north” crags remain closed, but may re-open next year.
approach
From the village of Safe Harbor, travel River Road south to Green Hill Road. Take Green Hill, continuing past a few turns, and park on either side of the tunnel; be sure not to block the road. (On busy days, it may be possible to park one line of cars inside the tunnel.) Locate a climbers’ trail, beginning from the uphill side of the tunnel, and follow it for 150 yards to gain the rail trail. Turn right and hike for about 10 minutes to reach the Blood Sugar Magic sector. The other sectors are another 5 to 15 minutes—you will come upon them in the order detailed below. Climb safe, harbor only good thoughts, and have fun!
There is no access via Brenner Hollow Road—do not park here! Please car pool—there is limited parking near the tunnel. Green Hill Road turns into a rocky one-lane road, so drive slowly.
ethic
FIXED ANCHORS – Climb at your own risk! Some of the bolts at Safe Harbor are more than 20 years old, although many of the more popular routes have been upgraded to stainless steel hardware (an ongoing project). While the majority of bolts are likely trustworthy, you must still be vigilant and assess every bolt/anchor you clip. Please toprope through quick draws and not through rings or chains!
OVERGROWN/DIRTY ROUTES – While the more popular routes are in relatively good condition, many climbs are dirty and to some degree overgrown with grass, weeds, or vines. Consider doing a little “cleaning” of the routes you get on (use a nut tool to clean dirt from cracks and pockets). Watch for loose rock–there’s a lot of this at Safe Harbor–but be careful not to pry off important handholds.
FUNDRAISING & SWEAT EQUITY- In addition to fixed anchor replacement, we need to install an information kiosk, as well as develop improved parking. An Access Fund “matching grant” looks likely for next Spring, and so we (the climbing community) must raise as much $$ as we can this winter. I will soon install a PayPal “donate button” on the SHC web site, and I hope to schedule fundraising events at nearby rock gyms this winter. Join the Safe Harbor Facebook group to get involved.
WALK THE TALK - We all know that climbers are generally positive, proactive, kind folks and as a national community climbers are held in high regard by most land managers. I have no doubt that local land managers (and residents) will similarly come to recognize our values and virtues as recreational users. Toward this end, here are a few things to keep in mind: Leave the crags and parking area cleaner than you find them; be friendly to passing hikers and share your passion for climbing; obey the dawnto-dusk guidelines (no camping!); drive slowly and park in a way that will not affect traffic flow.
1.1. Blood Sugar Magic Sector 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.911401, -76.372457
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Copperhead Road
The leftmost route, starts by stemming up the pillar to a stance. Thin but positive holds and funky movement, finishes on the same anchor as BSM. No shuts. FA: Eric Hörst & Bob Perna | 5.12a | 39ft, 4 | |||
| 2 |
★ Blood Sugar Magic
Follow the distinct crack feature through tricky, balancy climbing. Some of the clips are mildly terrifying if you don’t have the beta wired or ridiculously long arms. Pretty good. FA: Bob Perna | 5.11d | 39ft, 4 | |||
| 3 | Bomb Free Harbor | 5.11b | 40ft | |||
1.2. Electric Co. Sector 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.915998, -76.375777
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Safe Harbor Direct | 5.9 | 55ft | |||
| 2 | Two Pines | 5.8 | 98ft | |||
| 3 | Snake Route | 5.7 | 59ft | |||
| 4 | Under Fire | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
| 5 | Electric Co. | 5.10b | 45ft | |||
| 6 | Mia | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
| 7 | Maggie | 5.11a | 30ft | |||
| 8 | Old School High Ball | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
| 9 | Sugar High | 5.11b/c | 35ft | |||
| 10 | Clever Retort | 5.10b | 40ft | |||
| 11 | Can't Remember | 5.8 | 70ft | |||
| 12 | After Thought? | 5.6 R | 70ft | |||
| 13 | Trad/solo | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
| 14 | Public Service | 5.8 | 75ft | |||
| 15 | Black Velvet | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
| 16 | Lost Boys | 5.10d | 30ft | |||
1.3. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Tenuous Odyssey
The obvious thin slab. Quite engaging, and requires trust in your feet. If you feel insecure, remember the FA was done ground up on a single 1/4” bolt (yikes!). FA: Don Gallagher | 5.10a/b | 72ft, 7 | |||
1.4. Machismo Sector 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.917153, -76.376544
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Machismo | 5.11c | 35ft | |||
| 2 | Pass The Dew | 5.10a PG13 | 80ft | |||
| 3 | Lynn's Chin | 5.9 | 85ft | |||
| 4 | Two Cold To Stroke | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
| 5 | Witness | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
| 6 | Virtual Reality | 5.13a | 60ft | |||
| 7 | Fist Full Of Schist | 5.10a | 40ft | |||
| 8 | Between Rains | 5.11b | 65ft | |||
| 9 | Between Rains Thunderhead Variation | 5.12 | 50ft | |||
1.5. Super Slab Sector 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Your Mother | 5.9 | 3 | |||
| 2 | slab past tree | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Slab Master | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 |
★★★ Super Slab
Easier if you use the small arete left of bolt #2. Climb straight past the bolts for full value. | 5.10d | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Who Shot Bambi | 5.9 | 9 | |||
| 6 | ★ Pro Bono | 5.7 | 80ft, 8 | |||
1.6. Autumn Arch Sector 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.918720, -76.377473
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Wonderama | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
| 2 | ★ White Stripes | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
| 3 | Lycra Perversion | 5.10c | ||||
| 4 | Heart's Horizon | 5.10b | ||||
| 5 | Urban Daydreams | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
| 6 | Where Eagles Dare | 5.8 | 80ft | |||
| 7 | Static Cling | 5.11b | 80ft | |||
| 8 | Autumn Arch | 5.10b | 85ft | |||
| 9 | Doppelganger | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
| 10 | Expose' | 5.11b | 80ft | |||
| 11 | Visionaire | 5.13c | 80ft | |||
| 12 | Locomotion | 5.10a | ||||
| 13 | Chillin' And Maxin' | 5.10- | 80ft | |||
| 14 | Eminant Domain | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
| 15 | Fr-Agile | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
| 16 | The Schisting | 5.10a R | 60ft | |||
1.7. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.918973, -76.377753
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 18 And Life | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
| 2 | 19s In The House | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | The Righteous And The Wicked | 5.10d | ||||
| 4 | Marriage By Napster | 5.9 R | 70ft | |||
| 5 | Upper Cut | 5.11 | 50ft | |||
| 6 | Final Cut | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
| 7 | Rockin Peacock | 5.10a/b | ||||
| 8 | Both Ends Burning | 5.10d | ||||
| 9 | Both Ends Burning Variation | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
| 10 | Af In Pa | 5.9 | ||||
| 11 | Avant Garden | 5.8 X | ||||
1.8. Numero Uno Sector 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Numero Uno
Note, the source I looked at years ago gave this a 5.10c, but the verbal consensus between me and some friends was it felt less technical. I personally lean towards a 10a or b, but used 5.10a YDS here. | 5.10a | 50ft, 7 | |||
| 2 | Tradatrocity | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Tonga Redirect | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
| 4 | Tonga | 5.9 | ||||
| 5 | Wild Palms | 5.11b | 50ft | |||
| 6 | That Crack By Numero Uno | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
| 7 | The Other Crack By Numero Uno | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
| 8 | T-Bag | 5.8 R | ||||
| 9 | Warthogs Can't Fly | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
| 10 | Hogwart's Can Fly | 5.10 | 40ft | |||
1.9. Train in Vain Sector 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.919779, -76.378357
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Flex All
The furthest left route at Train in Vain sector. Two boulder problems to an easy but tricky finish. Highly recommended to stick clip the first bolt. FA: Eric Hörst | 5.12a | 39ft, 4 | |||
| 2 |
★ Train in Vain
Climb the opening boulder of Flex All and go right at bolt 2 through a powerful boulder to gain jugs and a funky finish. Again, stick clipping bolt 1 is highly recommended. FA: Eric Hörst | 5.12c | 33ft, 5 | |||
| 3 |
The Sighting
Climb the left side of the golden slab to gain a stance and head straight up, lay backing on jugs to a reach clip for the anchors. Not the greatest route but okay for SH. FA: Bob Perna & Denny Porinni | 5.8 | 4 | |||
| 4 |
Econoline
Head up the scrappy face through an indistinct and weird line. Not very pleasant. FA: Bob Perma (original), Larry & Larry(extension) | 5.8 | 5 | |||
| 5 |
Demon in My Semen
To the right of econoline. High first bolt, spooky climbing and feels quite insecure for 5.10b as I remember. Again, the line is easy to stray from. FA: Bob Perna | 5.10b | 5 | |||
| 6 | Crumbledore | 5.12d | 30ft | |||
| 7 | Flex In Vain | 5.11a | 40ft | |||
| 8 | Eight ... No. Ten! | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
1.10. Hydroman Sector 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | dirty, streak face | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Parabolic Corner
Popular | 5.11c | ||||
| 3 | ★ Adopted Son | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 |
★ Le Eaglet
Good beginner's route. | 5.7 | ||||
| 5 | past vines to 2 bolts | |||||
| 6 | There goes the Hood | 5.7 | ||||
| 7 | face past bush | |||||
| 8 | ★ Crossroads | 5.10d | ||||
| 9 |
★★★ Hydroman
Safe Harbor's first sport route. Classic! Reachy crux near top. | 5.11b | ||||
| 10 |
★★ Mental as Anything
A good, well protected 5.9 for aspiring leaders. | 5.9 | ||||
| 11 |
★ Body Drama
Difficult boulder problem past 1st bolt; or use easier start on left and move up and right to 2nd bolt (5.11b). | 5.12b | ||||
1.11. Key West Wall 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.910566, -76.371791
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A Ledged Crimes | 5.6 | 50ft | |||
| 2 | Key West | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
| 3 | Fine-Apple | 5.8 | 40ft | |||
